Bathroom sink stopper not working
A bathroom sink stopper not working usually means the linkage under the sink has slipped out of adjustment, or the stopper is caked with hair and gunk. Both are quick fixes with no special tools. If the stopper won't hold water, won't open, or drops on its own, start under the sink. If you're here because the sink drains slowly, cleaning the stopper often fixes that too. Sink stoppers are all about the little linkage under the sink. Once you see how it moves, adjusting it is easy.
How a sink stopper works
Most bathroom sinks have a pop-up stopper. The lift rod behind the faucet runs down to a flat metal strap with holes, called the clevis. A horizontal pivot rod passes through one of those holes, held by a spring clip, and its other end goes through the side of the drain pipe and under a loop on the stopper. Pull the lift rod up and the pivot rod tips, pushing the stopper down to close the drain.
Push-button or click-clack stoppers have no linkage at all. You press the stopper to close it and press again to open it, and a spring mechanism inside does the work. Those stoppers unscrew from the top.
Why the stopper stops working
The pivot rod or clevis is in the wrong position.
Buildup keeps it from sealing or moving.
Water drips from the back of the drain.
The spring won't click open or closed.
| You notice | Likely cause | Start at |
|---|---|---|
| Lift rod moves but stopper doesn't | Pivot rod slipped out | Step 1 |
| Stopper won't close all the way | Clevis needs adjusting | Step 2 |
| Stopper closes but water leaks out | Hair stuck under the stopper | Step 3 |
| Sink drains slowly | Hair on the stopper | Step 3 |
| Drips from back of drain pipe | Loose or worn pivot nut | Step 4 |
| Push-button stopper won't click | Dirty or worn mechanism | Step 5 |
| Parts are corroded or broken | Worn pop-up drain | Step 6 |
Let's fix it
- Look at the linkage under the sinkEmpty the cabinet and shine a flashlight on the back of the drain pipe. Find the pivot rod coming out of the pipe, the spring clip, and the clevis strap attached to the lift rod with a small screw. Move the lift rod up and down and watch what happens. A pivot rod that has slipped out of the clevis or clip is a common reason the stopper does nothing.
- Adjust the clevis and pivot rodIf the stopper doesn't close all the way, loosen the clevis screw, push the stopper down by hand so it's fully closed, then slide the clevis up or down the lift rod so it's in line with the pivot rod and tighten the screw. You can also squeeze the spring clip, pull the pivot rod out of the clevis, and move it to a hole higher or lower on the strap. The goal is a stopper that seals when the lift rod is all the way up and opens fully when it's down. If the stopper drifts down or won't stay open, snug the pivot nut slightly; it provides the friction that holds the rod in place.
- Pull out and clean the stopperPut a bucket under the drain. Unscrew the pivot nut on the back of the drain pipe and pull the pivot rod out, and the stopper will lift straight out of the drain. Pull off the hair and slime with gloved fingers and scrub the stopper with an old toothbrush. When you put it back, make sure the pivot rod goes through the loop on the bottom of the stopper, or the stopper won't move.
- Fix a leak at the pivot nutIf water drips from where the pivot rod enters the drain pipe, tighten the pivot nut by hand plus a little turn with pliers. Don't crank it so tight that the rod can't move. If it still drips, take the nut off and replace the small washer or gasket inside, which is sold on its own or in pop-up repair kits.
- Fix a push-button stopperOpen the stopper and unscrew the cap counterclockwise, then unscrew the whole stopper body from the drain. Clean off the hair and buildup, rinse it, and screw it back in. Many have an adjustable height so they seal properly; turn the cap or body until it closes flat against the drain. If the spring mechanism won't click or hold, replace the stopper with one sized for your drain.
- Replace the pop-up drainIf parts are corroded, broken or still won't seal, replace the whole pop-up drain assembly. Disconnect the slip nut and the linkage, unscrew the large nut under the sink that holds the drain body, and push the old drain out from below. Set the new drain flange in plumber's putty or the gasket that comes with it, tighten the nut from below, then reconnect the trap and linkage and run water to check for leaks.
Watch it done
- The stopper closes and holds water
- It opens fully and drains fast
- No drips at the pivot nut
If it still won't seal
If the stopper works but the sink still drains slowly, the clog is further down in the trap. See the guide for a slow-draining sink.
If you've adjusted everything and the stopper still won't seal, the stopper or drain flange may be worn or mismatched. Replacing the pop-up drain assembly usually solves it.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A plumber typically charges $150–$300 to repair or replace a bathroom sink pop-up drain, most of which is the service call minimum.
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Sink stopper questions
Why won't my bathroom sink stopper stay closed?
The clevis strap or pivot rod under the sink is out of adjustment, or hair is keeping it from seating.
How do I remove a bathroom sink stopper?
Unscrew the pivot nut behind the drain, pull out the pivot rod, and lift the stopper out.
How do I remove a push-button sink stopper?
Open it, then unscrew the cap or the whole stopper counterclockwise.
Why is the back of my sink drain leaking?
The pivot nut is loose or its washer is worn.
Why won't my bathroom sink hold water?
Usually the linkage under the sink has slipped out of adjustment, or the stopper is caked with hair and gunk. Step 2 covers adjusting the clevis and pivot rod.