Carpentry

Repair a rotted window sill

A rotted window sill can usually be repaired instead of replaced when the rot is in one area. Dig out the soft wood, let what's left dry, harden it with a wood consolidant, and rebuild the shape with two-part epoxy wood filler. Then sand, prime and paint so water can't get back in. If the rot runs deep into the frame or the sill moves when you push on it, replacement is the better call. Epoxy can save a sill if the rot hasn't gone all the way through.

Pressing epoxy filler into a dug-out rotted corner of an exterior window sill
Dig out soft wood, harden what's left, then fill with epoxy.
Quick answerProbe to find the soft wood, dig it out to firm wood, let it dry, harden it with epoxy consolidant, fill with two-part epoxy, then sand, prime, paint and caulk. Replace the sill if the rot goes through.
Worth checking firstProbe the whole sill before buying epoxy. If the rot goes through, a new sill is the better fix.

Good to knowWeekend project

Moderate2–4 hours over 2–3 days$30–80
Cross-section of a window sill sloping away from the window: a soft rotted area at the outer edge found by pushing in an awl, the rot dug out to firm wood with the edges undercut, liquid epoxy consolidant soaked into the remaining fibers, two-part epoxy filler pressed in and shaped to the slope, primer and paint over the repair, caulk at the joint with the window frame, and the drip edge on the underside left clear.
Find the soft wood (1) with an awl (3) and dig it out, leaving firm wood (2). Fill with two-part epoxy (4), keep the slope (5) so water runs off, caulk the joint (6), and keep the drip edge clear (7).

Why window sills rot

The sill is the sloped board at the bottom of the window frame, and on the outside it takes more water than any other part of the window. Rain sits on it, paint and caulk crack where it meets the frame, and condensation runs down the glass onto it from inside. Once water gets into the wood and stays, rot fungi break the fibers down until the wood turns soft and spongy.

Ordinary wood filler shrinks and cracks outdoors. Two-part epoxy fillers made for wood repair bond to the surrounding wood, don't shrink, and can be shaped and painted like wood, which is why they're used for sill repairs. A liquid epoxy consolidant soaked in first hardens slightly soft wood so the filler has something solid to grip.

Common causes of sill rot

Cracked paint and caulk

Water gets into the wood and stays.

Flat or poorly sloped sill

Rain sits instead of running off.

Condensation inside

Water runs down the glass onto the sill.

No drip edge

Water wicks back under the sill.

What's happening?
You noticeLikely causeStart at
Screwdriver sinks into the sillRotStep 1
Most of the sill is softNeeds replacingStep 2
Small soft spot near the cornerGood epoxy repairStep 3
Paint peeling over firm woodPaint failure, not rotStep 8
Water on the inside sill in winterCondensationStep 9
Lead paint and epoxyIn homes built before 1978, paint may contain lead; test it, and if it's positive, avoid dry sanding and follow lead-safe practices or hire a lead-certified contractor. Wear gloves when handling epoxy and work with good ventilation.

Let's fix it

0 of 9 done
  1. Find the soft woodPush an awl or screwdriver into the sill every inch or so, inside and out. Sound wood resists; rotted wood lets the tip sink in easily or feels spongy. Mark the edges of the soft area with a pencil. In a home built before 1978, test the paint for lead before scraping or sanding.
    Awl pushed into a painted window sill every inch or so, sinking easily into a soft area near the outer edge, with the edges of the rot marked in pencil and a lead test kit for older homes
  2. Decide repair or replaceEpoxy repair works well when the rot is in a limited area and the rest of the sill is firm. If the soft area covers most of the sill, the rot goes all the way through, the sill moves when you push it, or the framing under the window is soft too, replacing the sill is the better fix, and usually a job for a carpenter.
    A sill with a small soft area marked as an epoxy repair, next to a sill rotted through and moving when pushed, with soft framing below, marked as replace with a carpenter
  3. Dig out the rotUse a chisel and a 5-in-1 tool to remove all the crumbly, soft wood down to firm wood. Slightly soft wood at the edges can stay, since the consolidant will harden it. Undercut the edges a little so the filler locks in, and vacuum out the debris.
    Chisel and 5-in-1 tool removing crumbly, soft wood down to firm wood, edges undercut slightly so the filler locks in, and the debris vacuumed out
  4. Let it dryThe wood has to be dry for epoxy to bond. Cover the area from rain with plastic taped above it, and give it a few dry days, or use a fan. Rotted wood near the surface usually holds more water than it looks.
    Dug-out sill covered from rain with plastic taped above it and a fan blowing across it for a few dry days
  5. Harden it with consolidantBrush or squeeze liquid epoxy consolidant into the cleaned-out area until the wood stops soaking it up, following the product's directions. It soaks into the remaining fibers and hardens them. Let it cure until it's tacky or hard, as the label says, before filling.
    Liquid epoxy consolidant brushed into the cleaned-out area until the wood stops soaking it up, hardening the remaining fibers
  6. Fill with epoxyMix the two-part filler in the ratio on the package until it's one even color. Press it firmly into the hole with a putty knife, working out air pockets, and overfill slightly. For a deep hole, build it up in layers. Shape it roughly to match the sill's slope and edges while it's still soft.
    Something went wrong?
    • The filler sags out of the hole Build it up in thinner layers and let each set.
    Two-part epoxy filler mixed to one even color and pressed into the hole with a putty knife, working out air pockets, overfilled slightly and roughed to the sill's slope
  7. Sand and shape itOnce the filler has fully cured, usually overnight, sand it flush and smooth with 80-grit, then 120-grit paper on a sanding block. Keep the sill's slope so water runs off it. Wipe off the dust.
    Something went wrong?
    • The filler is still soft Give it more time or warmth; check the mix ratio next time.
    Cured filler sanded flush with 80-grit then 120-grit paper on a sanding block, keeping the sill's slope so water runs off
  8. Prime and paintPrime the repair and any bare wood with an exterior primer, then apply two coats of exterior paint over the whole sill. Paint seals the wood against the water that caused the rot.
    Exterior primer brushed over the repair and bare wood, then two coats of exterior paint over the whole sill
  9. Caulk and keep water offCaulk the joints where the sill meets the window frame and the siding or trim, but leave any weep holes or drip gaps open. If condensation on the inside glass was soaking the sill, we have a guide for condensation on windows.
    Caulk run along the joint where the sill meets the window frame and the siding, with the weep holes and drip gap underneath left open

Watch it done

How to Fix Rotted Wood with EpoxyBy This Old House on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • The sill feels hard everywhere
  • Water runs off the slope
  • Paint and caulk are sealed

Soft spots coming back? The sill may need replacing.

If it's paint or condensation

If water forms on the inside of the glass, see the guide for condensation on windows.

If the paint is peeling but the wood underneath is sound, check our guide for fixing peeling paint.

Check sills every fallLook at your sills every fall when you clean the windows. Recaulking a crack and touching up bare paint takes minutes and keeps the next rot repair from happening.
Renting?If you rent, report a soft sill; it means water is getting in.
Call a carpenter ifThe rot goes through the sill or into the framing, the sill moves, water is getting inside the wall, the paint tests positive for lead over a large area, or the window itself needs replacing.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A carpenter typically charges $200–$500 to repair a rotted sill with epoxy, and $400–$1,000 or more to replace a sill, depending on the window and trim.

Find a carpenter near you

Something else going on?

Rotted window sill questions

Can a rotted window sill be repaired?

Yes, when the rot is limited. Dig out the soft wood, harden what's left, and rebuild with epoxy filler.

What is the best filler for a rotted window sill?

A two-part epoxy wood filler, used after a liquid epoxy consolidant.

How do I know if my window sill is rotted?

Push an awl or screwdriver into it. Rotted wood is soft and lets the tip sink in.

When should a window sill be replaced?

When the rot goes through it, the sill moves, or the framing underneath is soft too.

Can a soft window sill be repaired?

Usually, if the rot is in one area: dig it out, harden what's left with consolidant and rebuild it with epoxy filler. Replace it if the rot runs deep or the sill moves when pushed.

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A helpful next stepCondensation on the inside of windowsMeasure the indoor humidity, run the exhaust fans, and keep air moving across the glass.