Dryer not heating
A dryer that tumbles but doesn't heat is often a setting, a tripped breaker, or a clogged vent that made a safety part shut the heat off. Check those before you order parts. Electric dryers need both halves of a 240-volt breaker to heat, so a half-tripped breaker is a common culprit. Clean the vent while you're at it. A clogged one is one of the most common reasons the heat shuts off in the first place.
Why a dryer stops heating
An electric dryer heats with an element and needs a 240-volt circuit; the drum motor can run on half of it, so the drum turns even when the heat can't. A gas dryer uses a burner and needs the gas turned on.
Both have safety devices that cut the heat if the dryer overheats, usually because lint is blocking the vent. Fixing the airflow often solves it; sometimes a safety fuse has blown and needs replacing.
Common reasons for no heat
Air fluff or no heat.
Half of the 240-volt circuit is off.
Overheating trips a safety part.
, element or igniter.
| What you notice | Likely cause | Try |
|---|---|---|
| Tumbles, no heat at all | Breaker or fuse | Reset the breaker; check the vent. |
| Heats a little, clothes still damp | Clogged vent | Clean the vent. |
| Heats, then stops | Overheating | Check for a crushed duct. |
| Gas dryer, no flame | Gas off or igniter | Check the valve; call if needed. |
Get the heat back
- Check the settingMake sure the dryer isn't on air fluff, no heat, or a delicate setting that barely warms. Try a timed dry on high heat.
- Reset the breakerElectric dryers use a double breaker. Even if it looks on, push it fully OFF and then back ON. One half can trip and leave the drum turning with no heat.
- Check the gasOn a gas dryer, make sure the shutoff valve on the gas line behind the dryer is open, with the handle in line with the pipe.
- Clean the lint screenPull the lint screen and clean it. If it looks clean but water beads up on it, wash it with a little dish soap to remove dryer sheet film.
- Clear the ventUnplug the dryer, disconnect the duct and clean it out along with the outside vent. A clogged vent is the most common reason a safety part shuts the heat off.
- Test itReconnect everything and run the dryer on high for a few minutes. You should feel warm air at the outside vent. If it's still cold, a blown thermal fuse, element or igniter is likely.
Watch it done
- Warm air comes out the outside vent on high
- Clothes come out dry in a normal cycle
- The heat stays on for the whole cycle
Heat quits partway through? The vent is probably still restricted.
If it still won't heat
If the heat works for a while and then quits, the vent is probably still restricted. Check for a crushed duct behind the dryer and a stuck outside flap.
Replacement thermal fuses and elements are sold by model number. Unplug the dryer before testing any part, and if a fuse blew, fix the airflow first or the new one will blow too.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A dryer repair call typically runs $150–$350. A thermal fuse part often costs $10–$30; an element, $40–$100.
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