Kitchen & laundry

Electric stove burner not working

How you fix an electric stove burner that's not working depends on your stove. If it has removable coil burners, a simple swap test tells you whether the coil, the socket it plugs into, or the switch behind the knob has failed, and a new coil is an easy fix. On a smooth glass cooktop the heating element sits under the glass, so there's less you can safely do yourself. The swap test is the whole trick. Let the working coil tell you which part is bad.

Lifting a coil burner out of its socket on a white electric range to test it
Swapping a burner into a working socket shows whether the coil or the socket is bad.
Quick answerReseat the coil, then swap it with a working coil of the same size. If the good coil heats, replace the old one; if not, check the socket and the switch.
Worth checking firstSwap the dead coil with a working one of the same size. In two minutes you'll know whether you need a $20 coil or a repair call.

Good to knowNo toolbox needed

Easy15–45 min$0–50
An electric coil stovetop: the spiral coil burner resting in a shiny drip pan, its two terminals plugged into a socket under the cooktop, the control knob with its switch behind it, and the breaker for the stove at the panel. A second coil of the same size can be swapped in to test.
A coil burner (1) plugs into a socket (4) and is controlled by the switch behind its knob (5). Any of the three can stop the burner heating.

How an electric burner works

A coil burner is just a heating element that plugs into a (the receptacle) under the stovetop. The knob controls a switch that sends power to it. Any of those three parts can fail, and the coil is the most common.

A glass cooktop works the same way, but the element is fixed under the glass and wired in. If one area stops heating, you can check the power and the settings, but replacing the element means opening the cooktop.

Why a burner stops heating

A burned-out coil

The most common cause on coil stoves.

A loose coil

Not pushed fully into the socket.

A damaged socket

Burned or loose contacts.

A failed switch

Burner only works on one setting, or not at all.

What does the swap test tell you?
ResultBad partNext step
Working coil heats in the dead socketThe old coilReplace the coil.
Working coil won't heat thereSocket or switchCheck the socket for scorching.
Burner only heats on high or lowThe switchReplace the switch or call a pro.
No burners workPowerCheck the breaker.
Power off firstNever touch a burner or socket until it's completely cool and the power is off. Don't cover drip pans with foil; it can overheat the socket and cause a short.

Let's fix it

0 of 7 done
  1. Check which kind of stove you haveCoil burners are raised spirals you can lift slightly and unplug. Smooth glass cooktops are flat with painted circles. The steps below are for coils; if you have a glass top, jump to step 6.
    A raised coil burner next to a smooth glass cooktop with painted circles
  2. Turn it off and let it coolTurn every knob to off and let the burner cool completely. For extra safety, turn off the stove's breaker at the panel before you unplug anything.
    Stove knob set to off with the coil dark and cool, and the stove's double breaker switched off at the panel
  3. Reseat the coilLift the edge of the coil a little and pull it straight out of the socket. Look for anything obviously wrong, then push it back in firmly until it sits level. A coil that's only halfway in won't heat, and it can loosen when you clean the drip pans.
    Something went wrong?
    • The coil won't push back in Line the prongs up with the socket and push straight in; don't force it at an angle. Bent prongs mean a new coil.
    Coil burner being lifted slightly at the edge and pushed firmly back into its socket until it sits level
  4. Swap it with a working coilUnplug a coil of the same size from a burner that works and plug it into the dead burner's socket. Turn the power back on and test it. If the working coil heats there, the old coil is bad. If it still doesn't heat, the problem is the socket or the switch.
    Coil from a working burner plugged into the dead burner's socket and glowing red, showing the old coil is the problem
  5. Look at the coil and socketCheck the coil for bubbles, cracks or breaks and the prongs for burn marks. With the power off, look into the socket for blackened or melted spots. A new coil costs about $15–40; bring the old one or your stove's model number to match it. A scorched socket also needs replacing, and many stoves make that a simple swap, but if it looks melted or the wires are damaged, call a pro.
    Something went wrong?
    • The socket is melted or blackened Stop and don't plug a new coil into it. Replace the socket, or call a pro if the wires are damaged.
    Coil with a blister and a break next to a socket with blackened scorch marks inside
  6. For a glass top, check the basicsMake sure the cooktop isn't locked and that you're using the right knob for that burner. Check the breaker. Some elements cycle on and off by design; watch it for a minute on high. If one area never glows or warms, the element or its switch has usually failed, and that's a repair visit.
    Smooth glass cooktop with one element glowing red on high, with the lock light off and the breaker checked
  7. Test it on every settingWith everything back together, run the burner on low, medium and high. If it only works on high, or only on low, the switch behind the knob is the likely cause, not the coil.
    Knob turned to low, medium and high in turn, with the coil glowing at each setting

Watch it done

Electric Stove Burner Not Working - Troubleshoot it!By Know How Now on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • The burner glows red on high within a minute or two
  • It heats on low, medium and high
  • The coil sits level in its socket

Only heats on one setting? The switch behind the knob is the likely cause.

If it still won't heat

If none of the burners or the oven heat but the clock and lights still work, the stove may be getting only half its power. Turn its double breaker fully off, then back on. If that doesn't fix it, call an electrician.

If a glass cooktop has a crack, stop using it and turn off the stove's breaker until it's replaced. A cracked top can let spills reach live parts.

Match the coil exactlyWhen you buy a new coil, take a photo of the old one's prongs and note its size and the stove's model number. Coils that look alike don't always fit the same sockets.
Renting?If you rent, reseating a coil is fine; ask your landlord before replacing parts.
Call a repair tech ifThe socket is melted or the wires are damaged, the switch needs replacing and you're not comfortable with wiring, a glass-top element won't heat, the glass is cracked, or the breaker trips when you use the burner.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A repair visit usually runs $100–$250. Replacing a burner switch typically costs $150–$250, and a glass-top element $200–$400 including labor.

Find appliance repair near you

Something else going on?

Electric burner questions

Why is one burner on my electric stove not working?

Usually a burned-out coil, a coil that isn't pushed fully into its socket, or a damaged socket or switch.

How do I know if my stove coil is bad?

Swap it with a working coil of the same size. If the working coil heats in that spot, the old coil is bad.

Can I replace an electric stove burner myself?

Coils just unplug and plug in. Sockets and switches involve wiring, so turn off the breaker first, or call a pro.

Why does my glass cooktop burner turn on and off?

That's normal. Elements cycle to hold the heat level. If one never warms at all, it has usually failed.

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We're a small team of writers and editors who check every guide against manufacturer instructions and common code requirements. Our goal is to help you understand the problem, tackle what you safely can and know when to call a pro.

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A helpful next stepOven not heatingCheck the settings and breaker, then look at the bake element on electric ovens or the igniter on gas ovens.