Heating & cooling

Furnace making noise

A furnace making noise is usually pointing at something specific. Whistling often comes from a clogged filter or closed vents, rattling from a loose panel, screw or duct, and squealing from a worn blower belt or a motor that needs attention. A loud bang or boom when the burners light is different. That's usually delayed ignition from dirty burners, and it's a job for a technician, not a DIY fix. The sound tells you where to look. Air sounds are easy fixes; booms at ignition are a call to a pro.

Shining a flashlight into a furnace blower compartment while tightening a cabinet screw
Rattles often trace back to loose panels or screws on the furnace cabinet.
Quick answerWhistling: replace the filter and open the vents. Rattling: tighten panels, screws and duct straps. Squealing: check the blower belt and wheel with the power off. A bang or boom when the burners light needs a technician.
Worth checking firstPull the filter out and look at it first. A clogged filter is behind a lot of whistling and roaring, and it's a two-minute fix.
Moderate15–60 min$0–30
A gas forced-air furnace with its ducts: the air filter slot at the side near the bottom where a clogged filter causes whistling, the return grille and supply registers that must stay open, a loose access panel screw that rattles, a supply duct section that pops as it flexes, the blower compartment with the blower wheel and belt that squeal or scrape, and the burner area at the top where a bang at ignition means delayed ignition that needs a technician. The furnace power switch on the wall is turned off before opening the blower door.
Whistling usually starts at the filter slot (1) or closed registers (2), rattles at a loose panel (3), pops in the ducts (4) and squeals at the blower wheel (5). A boom at the burners (6) means call a technician. Turn off the power switch (7) before opening the blower door.

Normal furnace sounds and noisy ones

A gas forced-air furnace has a few parts that make sound on every cycle. An inducer fan starts first to pull exhaust out, an igniter lights the burners, and once the heat exchanger warms up, the blower pushes air through the ducts. A click, a soft whoosh from the burners and a steady hum from the blower are normal. Ducts also tick and pop a little as the metal heats and cools.

New or louder sounds are the ones to track down. Air noises usually mean the system is starved for air, metal noises usually mean something has worked loose, and motor noises mean a belt or bearing is wearing out. Most of the easy causes are on the air side and outside the furnace cabinet. Noises from the burners or the motors themselves are where a technician comes in.

Common causes of furnace noise

A dirty filter or closed vents

Starved airflow whistles and roars.

Loose panels, screws or ducts

Sheet metal rattles, buzzes and pops.

A worn belt or motor

The blower squeals or grinds.

Dirty burners

Gas builds up and lights with a boom.

What's that sound?
You hearLikely causeStart at
Whistling at the filter or ventsDirty filter or closed ventsStep 2
Booming in the ducts at blower startPressure or a flexing ductStep 3
Rattling or buzzingLoose panel, screw or strapStep 4
Popping in the ductsDucts expanding or flexingStep 5
Squealing or scraping while it runsBelt or blower wheelStep 6
Bang or boom when burners lightDelayed ignitionStep 7
Grinding from a motorWorn motor bearingsStep 7
Power off; booms mean stopSwitch off the furnace's power switch and breaker and confirm the power is off before removing the blower door, and put the door back before turning it on. If it bangs when the burners light, turn it off and call for service. If you smell gas, leave the house and call the gas company from outside.

Let's fix it

0 of 7 done
  1. Pin down the sound and when it happensStand near the furnace through a full cycle. Notice whether the noise starts when the inducer fan starts, when the burners light, while the blower runs, or after it shuts off, and whether it comes from the furnace or out in the ducts. A bang or boom right as the burners light is delayed ignition; turn the furnace off at the thermostat and skip to the last step. Record a short video on your phone to remember the sound.
    Furnace cycle shown as a timeline of inducer fan start, burners lighting and blower running, with a phone recording the noise and a warning that a boom when the burners light means turn it off and call
  2. Replace a dirty filterA clogged filter makes the blower strain, which can sound like whistling around the filter slot or a louder roar from the vents. Slide the filter out and hold it up to a light; if you can't see light through it, replace it with the same size, with the airflow arrow pointing toward the furnace. Make sure the filter cover is on so air isn't whistling in around the slot. We have a guide for changing an HVAC air filter for sizes and schedules.
    Something went wrong?
    • It still whistles with a new filter Check that the filter cover is on and the filter is the right size, then open the registers.
    Old filter held up to a light with no light passing through, and a new filter of the same size slid into the slot with its airflow arrow pointing toward the furnace
  3. Open vents and clear returnsClosing too many supply registers, or blocking return grilles with furniture or rugs, raises the pressure in the ducts. That can cause whistling at the registers and booming in the ducts when the blower starts. Open the registers in every room, clear anything in front of the return grilles, and listen again.
    Supply registers in each room opened instead of closed, and a return grille cleared of a couch and rug blocking it
  4. Tighten loose panels and screwsRattles and buzzing usually come from loose sheet metal. Turn the furnace off at the thermostat, then check that the furnace's access panels are fully seated and their screws snug. Look for a loose screw, a loose duct strap or a rattling flue pipe connection, and tighten it. If a flue pipe joint has pulled apart or is rusted through, leave the furnace off and call a technician, since it can leak carbon monoxide. A strip of adhesive foam tape between two metal parts that touch can stop a buzz, but never block a vent opening or tape over the flue pipe.
    Furnace access panels pushed fully into place and their screws tightened, a loose duct strap snugged, and foam tape between two touching metal parts, with the flue pipe left untaped
  5. Check the ductsA pop or bang in the ducts when the blower starts or stops is often a flat section of duct flexing in and out, sometimes called oil canning. Follow the ducts you can reach in the basement or attic and look for loose joints, hanging straps that have come loose, and sections that flex when you push on them. Seal loose joints with foil HVAC tape, not cloth duct tape. If a large duct keeps booming, a technician can add a stiffening bend or brace.
    Basement supply duct with a flat section that flexes in and out when the blower starts, a loose joint sealed with foil HVAC tape, and cloth duct tape crossed out
  6. Look at the blower with the power offSquealing or scraping while the blower runs points to the blower. Switch off the furnace's power switch, usually on the side of the furnace or on a nearby wall, and its breaker, then confirm the power is off with a voltage tester. Remove the blower door. Look for debris inside the blower wheel and for a wheel that's loose on its shaft. On an older belt-drive blower, check the belt for cracks, glazing or looseness and replace it with one of the same size, set to the tension in the manual. A few older motors have oil ports; oil them only if the manual says to. Put the door back before restoring power.
    Something went wrong?
    • The blower door won't go back on Line up its bottom tabs first, then press it in until the door switch clicks; the furnace won't run without it.
    Furnace power switch turned off and confirmed off with a voltage tester, the blower door removed showing the blower wheel with debris in its blades, and a belt-drive blower's cracked belt beside a new belt of the same size
  7. Call a technician for booms, grinding or screechingSome noises need a pro. A bang or boom when the burners light, grinding or screeching from the blower or inducer motor, a rumble after the burners shut off, or flames that lift, roll or look ragged all need service. Leave the furnace off until it's checked, and make sure your carbon monoxide alarms work; see the guide for a carbon monoxide alarm beeping. If you smell gas, leave the house and call the gas company from outside.
    Furnace turned off at the thermostat with notes that a boom at ignition, grinding from a motor, or ragged lifting flames need a technician, a working carbon monoxide alarm, and a reminder to leave and call from outside if gas is smelled

Watch it done

Noisy Furnace? - Top 5 FixesBy AMRE Supply on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • No whistling, rattles or squeals through a full cycle
  • Burners light quietly
  • Registers blow steady air

Still banging at ignition? Leave it off and call a technician.

If it's more than noise

If the furnace runs but blows cold air, check our guide for a furnace blowing cold air.

If it turns on and off every few minutes, there's a separate guide for a furnace short cycling.

Record the noiseRecord a short video of the noise with the furnace in view. Noises often come and go, and a recording helps a technician pin it down on the first visit.
Renting?If you rent, change the filter if that's yours and report any noise to your landlord.
Call an HVAC technician ifYou hear a bang or boom when the burners light, grinding or screeching from a motor, the flames look wrong, the furnace trips its breaker, or you smell gas or burning.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): An HVAC service call typically costs $100–$200. A blower belt usually runs $100–$250 installed, cleaning burners for delayed ignition $150–$300, an inducer motor $300–$700, and a blower motor $400–$900 or more.

Find an HVAC technician near you

Something else going on?

Furnace noise questions

Why is my furnace making a loud noise?

Whistling usually means a dirty filter or closed vents, rattling a loose panel or duct, and squealing a belt or motor. A bang when the burners light needs a technician.

Is a banging furnace dangerous?

A bang or boom when the burners light is delayed ignition and should be checked soon. Turn the furnace off and call for service.

Why do my heating ducts pop?

Metal ducts expand and contract as they heat and cool, and flat sections can flex when the blower starts. Small pops are normal; loud booms are worth checking.

Can a dirty filter make a furnace noisy?

Yes. A clogged filter starves the blower for air, which can cause whistling and a louder roar.

Why is my furnace squealing?

Usually a worn blower belt or a motor that needs attention. Check the belt and blower wheel with the power off.

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About the authors

GrabTheHammer Team

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  • Safety first
  • Tells you when to call a pro

We're a small team of writers and editors who check every guide against manufacturer instructions and common code requirements. Our goal is to help you understand the problem, tackle what you safely can and know when to call a pro.

Checked against: Manufacturer instructions for the parts and products involved, ENERGY STAR.

How we write and review →
A helpful next stepFurnace blowing cold airSet the thermostat fan to AUTO, check the heat setting, and swap a dirty filter. Smell gas? Get out and call from outside.