Carpentry

Fix loose door trim

Loose door trim (the casing around the door) has usually lost its grip because its nails were too short, missed the framing or worked loose from years of the door slamming. Pressing it back and driving longer finish nails into the jamb and the framing behind the wall fixes it in about half an hour. A little glue at the corner keeps the miter from opening again. Long nails into the framing are what keep trim tight.

Quick answerPress the casing flat, nail its inner edge to the jamb with 1 1/4 inch finish nails and its outer edge into the framing beside the opening with 2 to 2 1/2 inch nails, glue and pin an open corner, then set, fill and caulk.
Worth checking firstCheck that the jamb isn't cracked first. Trim won't stay nailed to a split jamb.
Easy20–45 min$5–20
Front view of a door opening with its casing: the inner edge of the casing is nailed into the door jamb with short finish nails, the outer edge is nailed through the drywall into the framing beside the opening with longer finish nails, the two pieces meet in a glued miter at the top corner pinned with a small nail, a gap where the casing has pulled away from the wall is caulked, and a light switch box beside the door marks where not to nail.
Short nails (1) hold the inner edge to the jamb and longer ones (2) go into the framing (6). Glue and pin the miter (3), caulk the wall gap (4), and keep nails away from the switch box (5).

How door trim is attached

Door casing is nailed along two edges. Its inner edge is nailed into the door jamb with short finish nails, and its outer edge is nailed through the drywall into the framing beside the opening with longer ones. The two pieces meet at the top corners in a miter.

When the outer nails only catch drywall, or the wall isn't flat, the casing slowly pulls away and leaves a gap. Slamming doors, settling and seasonal swelling of the wood make it worse. If the jamb itself has moved or split, the trim is only showing the symptom.

Why door trim comes loose

Nails missed the framing

They only held in drywall.

Door slamming

Vibration works nails loose.

Wall not flat

The trim can't sit tight.

Wood movement

Seasons open the miter.

What's happening?
You noticeLikely causeStart at
Gap along the wall sideOuter nails let goStep 4
Inner edge lifting off the jambShort jamb nailsStep 3
Top corner openingMiter came apartStep 5
Trim won't lie flatWall bulgeStep 2
Jamb crackedSplit jambStep 1
Mind the switch boxLight switches often sit right beside a door. Don't nail into the wall near a switch or outlet box, where wires run. Wear safety glasses when driving nails, and keep your hand clear of the hammer's path. Trim in homes built before 1978 may have lead paint; don't sand or scrape old paint without lead-safe methods.

Let's fix it

0 of 6 done
  1. See why it pulled awayLook along the casing. If the whole piece has a gap at the wall, the outer nails let go. If it's loose near the corner, the miter has opened. If the door jamb itself is cracked or the door rubs, see the split jamb guide first, since new nails won't hold in a broken jamb.
    Door casing with a gap along its outer edge at the wall and a top corner miter opened slightly
  2. Press it backPush the casing flat against the jamb and wall. If old nails are sticking out, pull them, or tap them back in with a nail set. If the wall bulges and the casing won't sit flat, a little drywall may need to be shaved behind it with a utility knife.
    Palm pressing the loose casing flat against the wall while a nail set taps an old nail back in
  3. Nail the inner edge to the jambAbout 1/4 inch from the inside edge of the casing, drive 1 1/4 inch finish nails into the edge of the jamb every 12 to 16 inches. Predrill with a bit slightly smaller than the nail within 2 inches of the ends so the wood doesn't split.
    Something went wrong?
    • The nail split the trim Pull it, glue the split, and predrill before nailing near ends and edges.
    Hammer driving a short finish nail through the inner edge of the casing into the edge of the door jamb
  4. Nail the outer edge to the framingAlong the outer edge, drive 2 to 2 1/2 inch finish nails at a slight angle into the framing right beside the door opening, every 12 to 16 inches. The doubled stud beside the jamb sits right behind the casing's outer edge, so nails about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in from that edge, angled slightly toward the opening, will hit it. Stop the last swing before the hammer hits the wood.
    Something went wrong?
    • The nail won't bite You missed the framing. Nail about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in from the casing's outer edge, angled slightly toward the opening, to hit the doubled stud.
    Longer finish nail driven at a slight angle through the outer edge of the casing and the drywall into the framing beside the door
  5. Glue and pin the cornerIf the miter at the top has opened, work wood glue into the joint, press it closed and drive a small finish nail down through the top edge into the side piece. Predrill first. Wipe off squeezed-out glue with a damp rag.
    Glue worked into the open top miter of door casing and a small finish nail driven down through the top piece into the side piece
  6. Set, fill and caulkSink each nail head about 1/16 inch below the surface with a nail set. Fill the holes with wood filler, let it dry and sand it flush. Run a thin bead of painter's caulk along the gap between the casing and the wall, smooth it with a wet finger, and touch up the paint.
    Nail set sinking a nail head below the trim surface, filler in the hole, and a caulk bead along the gap between the casing and the wall

Watch it done

How To Repair Door TrimBy Rmarvids on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • The casing sits flat to the wall and jamb
  • No gap at the top corner
  • Nail holes are filled and painted

Pulling away again? The nails likely missed the framing; renail closer to the jamb.

If the jamb is the problem

If the door jamb is cracked, see the guide for fixing a split door jamb.

If the trim needs to come off for painting or flooring, see the guide for removing trim without damage.

Steady the nail setHold the nail set on the nail head with your fingers resting on the trim. It keeps the set from slipping and denting the wood.
Renting?If you rent, ask before nailing trim; report a split jamb.
Call a handyman ifThe door jamb is split or out of square, the wall is badly bulged or water-damaged behind the trim, or the trim is old painted wood that may have lead paint you'd need to sand.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A handyman typically charges $75–$200 to reset loose door trim, and more if the jamb needs repair or the trim replaced.

Find a carpenter near you

Something else going on?

Loose door trim questions

How do I fix door trim pulling away from the wall?

Press it flat and drive 2 to 2 1/2 inch finish nails along the outer edge into the framing beside the opening, then set, fill and caulk.

What size nails for door casing?

Usually about 1 1/4 inch into the jamb and 2 to 2 1/2 inch through the drywall into the framing.

Why is my door trim coming loose?

The outer nails often only caught drywall, and door slams and seasonal wood movement work them loose.

How do I close a gap at the top corner of door trim?

Glue the miter, press it closed and pin it with a small finish nail driven down through the top piece. Predrill first.

Should I caulk door trim to the wall?

Yes, on painted trim. A thin bead of painter's caulk hides the small gap and paints over.

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A helpful next stepRemove trim or baseboard without damaging the wallCut the caulk line and pry against a putty knife, not the wall.