Replace an electrical outlet

Before you buy the new one

A standard outlet has brass screws on one side for the hot wires (usually black), silver screws on the other for the neutral wires (usually white), and a green screw for the ground. If wires run to both pairs of screws, power passes through this outlet on its way to others, so every wire needs to go back exactly where it was.

Match the amp rating printed on the old outlet, 15 or 20. Outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, laundry areas and outdoors usually need GFCI protection, so if you're replacing one there, find out whether it's a GFCI itself or protected by one upstream.

Codes generally expect a replacement outlet to be tamper-resistant, and to get GFCI or AFCI protection wherever new work would need it. Check your local rules before you buy.

Why outlets wear out

Replace the outlet, step by step

1. Turn off the breakerSwitch off the circuit, then plug a lamp or an outlet tester into both halves of the outlet to confirm it's dead. Put tape over the breaker so nobody switches it back on.
   Done

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2. Test every wireTake off the cover plate and unscrew the outlet from the box. Check your voltage tester on a live outlet, hold it against every wire in the box, then check it on the live outlet again so you know it didn't quit partway through. It should stay silent on every wire.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The tester beeps on a wire with the breaker off That wire may be on another circuit. Find and turn off that breaker too, or call an electrician.
   • The box has more wires than you expected Take a clear photo and stop if you're unsure. Extra cables often feed other outlets and need to go back exactly as they were.

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3. Photograph, then disconnectTake a photo of which wire goes to which screw. Loosen the screws and unhook the wires. If wires are pushed into holes in the back, release them, or cut them off and strip fresh wire to the length shown by the strip gauge on the back of the new outlet.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • A wire is stuck in a push-in hole Press a small screwdriver into the release slot next to the hole and pull the wire, or cut it off close to the outlet and strip a fresh end.

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4. Wire the new outletHook each wire clockwise under the matching screw, following your photo: black to brass, white to silver, bare copper to green. Tighten firmly, and use the side screws, not the push-in holes. If the old outlet had a red wire, a white wire marked with black tape, or the metal tab between the brass screws broken off, copy it exactly, including breaking the same tab. If you're unsure, stop and call an electrician.
   Done

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5. Mount itFold the wires back into the box, screw the outlet in straight, and attach the cover plate.
   Done

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6. Turn the power on and testTurn the breaker back on and plug in an outlet tester. It should show correct wiring on both halves. If it doesn't, turn the breaker off again and check your photo.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The tester shows a wiring fault Turn the breaker off and compare with your photo. Hot and neutral reversed is the most common mistake.
   • The outlet is dead Check that the breaker is on and that a GFCI elsewhere on the circuit hasn't tripped.

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Watch it done

How to Replace an Electrical OutletBy The Home Depot on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.

Watch on YouTube

If the new outlet doesn't work

If the new outlet has no power, check that the breaker is on and that a GFCI elsewhere hasn't tripped. Then turn the power off and make sure every wire is tight under its screw.

If a plug-in tester shows an open ground or hot and neutral reversed, turn the power off and compare with your photo. Black goes on brass, white on silver.

If other outlets went dead after the swap, a wire that fed them probably isn't connected. Check that every wire from the old outlet went back on.