GFCI keeps tripping

How a GFCI decides to trip

A working GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) compares the current going out on the hot wire with the current coming back on the neutral. Normally they match. If even a small amount goes missing, it may be flowing through water, a damaged cord or a person, so the GFCI cuts power in a fraction of a second. That's why you find them in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, basements and outdoors, where water and electricity can meet. A trip is the device protecting you, not a failure in itself.

One GFCI often protects more than its own outlet. Wires on its LINE terminals bring power in from the panel, and wires on its LOAD terminals carry protected power on to other outlets, sometimes in another room or outside. A fault anywhere on that run trips the one GFCI, which is why a wet outdoor outlet can kill a bathroom outlet. GFCIs also wear out over time. Leviton says to test them monthly and replace one that doesn't trip and reset properly. An overloaded circuit is different: too much load trips the breaker in the panel, not usually the GFCI.

Why a GFCI keeps tripping

Let's fix it

1. Unplug everything and resetUnplug every cord from the GFCI. Then find any other outlets that went dead when it tripped, often nearby or on the other side of a wall, and unplug those too. With dry hands, press RESET firmly until it clicks and stays in. Some models show a green light when power is on. If it holds, the outlet itself is likely fine, and a device is the probable cause; go to Step 2. If it trips again right away with nothing plugged in, go to Step 3 to check for moisture. If it won't reset at all, check the breaker first, then see the guide for a GFCI that won't reset.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • RESET won't stay in Check the panel for a tripped breaker and reset it fully, off then on. If the breaker holds and RESET still won't latch, the GFCI may have no power or be at end of life; see Step 5.

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2. Find the faulty devicePlug one device back in and use it the way you normally would for a few minutes. If the GFCI holds, unplug it and try the next one. When the GFCI trips, you've likely found the culprit. Heaters, hair dryers, refrigerators, freezers, pool pumps, power tools and outdoor lights are common suspects, because heating parts, motors and outdoor cords can leak current as they age or get wet. Try the suspect on another GFCI outlet; if it trips there too, the device or its cord is the problem. Look for cracked, cut or crushed cords and damaged plugs. Stop using a device that keeps tripping GFCIs and repair or replace it.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • It only trips when the fridge cycles Some older fridges and freezers trip GFCIs. Check the cord and plug. Then have the appliance checked or call an electrician, and don't run it from an extension cord meanwhile.
   • It trips on a long outdoor string of lights Unplug the string and check each plug and connection for water. Use outdoor-rated cords and keep connections off the ground.

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3. Dry out a wet outlet and cover itIf it trips after rain, sprinklers, washing the car or long showers, moisture is a likely cause. Leave the GFCI tripped and don't use that outlet or anything on it until it's dry. For an outdoor outlet, open the cover and look for water, dirt, spider webs or insects. A fan or simply a few dry days often helps; inside a box, drying can take a day or longer. Then reset it. Outdoors, an in-use cover, often called a bubble cover, keeps rain off even with a cord plugged in. Make sure its gasket seals. If water keeps getting into the box, stop and call an electrician, because the box or its seal may need fixing.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • It dries out but trips again when it rains The cover, gasket or box seal is likely letting water in. Replace a flat cover with an in-use cover, or have an electrician reseal or replace the box.

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4. Check outlets downstreamA GFCI often protects other outlets wired from its LOAD side. Press TEST on the GFCI, then use a lamp or plug-in tester to find which other outlets went dead. Those are downstream. Check each one: unplug it, look for water, a cracked cover or an outlet on an outside wall, porch, garage or bathroom. A wet or damaged downstream outlet can trip the GFCI just like its own outlets. Dry it as in Step 3. If the GFCI trips only when something is plugged into a downstream outlet, test that device as in Step 2. If a downstream outlet is cracked, scorched or loose, turn off its breaker and leave it off until it's repaired.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • You can't tell what's downstream Label each outlet that goes dead when you press TEST. If no other outlets lose power, the GFCI protects only itself, so skip to Step 5.

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5. Test the GFCI and decide on replacing itWith everything unplugged and the outlet dry, press TEST. A working GFCI clicks and cuts power, so a lamp plugged into it goes out. Press RESET and the lamp should come back on. If it won't trip on TEST, won't stay reset, or trips with nothing connected after you've ruled out moisture and downstream outlets, the GFCI is likely worn out. Many electricians suggest replacing GFCIs at around 10 years, though lifespans vary. Replace it right away if you see discoloration, burn marks, a loose plug grip or warmth. A new GFCI typically costs about $15 to $30. Renters, report it rather than replacing it.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The TEST button does nothing Make sure the outlet has power first: check the breaker. If it has power and won't trip on TEST, it is no longer protecting you. Stop using it and replace it.

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6. Replace the GFCI safely, or call an electricianTurn off the breaker for the outlet. Check every wire with a non-contact voltage tester before touching anything, because one box can hold more than one circuit. Remove the cover and pull the GFCI out, noting which wires go to LINE and which go to LOAD. Take a photo. The LINE pair brings power from the panel; the LOAD pair feeds downstream outlets. Connect the new GFCI the same way, using the markings on its back and its instructions. Many new GFCIs won't reset if LINE and LOAD are reversed. Restore power, press RESET, then TEST. If wires are scorched, colors don't match, or you're unsure which pair is LINE, stop and call an electrician.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The new GFCI won't reset Turn the breaker off, test for voltage, and check that the panel wires are on LINE. Reversed wires are a common mistake. If it still won't reset, call an electrician.

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Watch it done

Bad GFCI? Maybe Not. Here's Why It TripsBy ElectriHelp on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.

Watch on YouTube

If it comes back

If the GFCI won't reset at all, even with nothing plugged in, check the breaker and work through the guide for a GFCI that won't reset.

If the breaker in the panel is what keeps tripping, the circuit may be overloaded or have a short. That's a different problem; see the guide for a breaker that keeps tripping.

If several outlets are dead and you can't find which GFCI controls them, see the guide for outlets not working. For outside outlets, see the guide for an outdoor outlet that's not working.