Replace one cracked ceramic wall tile

How a wall tile is held on

Each wall tile is stuck to the wall with a thin layer of adhesive. That's either a cement-based thinset mortar or a premixed adhesive, sometimes called mastic. The adhesive sits on drywall, cement board or an older mortar bed. Grout fills the joints between tiles. It locks them together and keeps out water and dirt. Because grout bonds the edges, you can't just pull one tile off. You have to cut the grout first, or the force passes into the tiles next to it and chips them.

A tile cracks for a few reasons. Something hard hit it, the house moved, or the wall behind is flexing or wet. A crack from a bump is a one-tile problem. A crack plus tiles that sound hollow when tapped, loose grout, or a soft spot in a shower wall points to water behind the tile. In that case the backing may be rotting, and mold can grow inside the wall. That needs a bigger repair than one tile.

Why a wall tile cracks

Let's fix it

1. Check the wall and find a matching tileTap the cracked tile and the tiles around it with the handle of a screwdriver. Solid tile sounds sharp. A hollow, dull sound means the adhesive has let go. Press on the cracked tile. If it moves, or the wall feels soft, look for loose grout or dark stains. In a shower, those signs often mean water got behind the tile. Stop there and call a tile pro, because the backing may be rotted or moldy. If the wall is solid, look for a spare tile. Match the size, color, finish and thickness. Many older bathroom wall tiles are 4-1/4 inches square, but measure yours. A hairline crack in a solid tile can wait until you have a match.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • I can't find a matching tile Take a broken piece to a tile store. If nothing matches, some people swap in a contrasting accent tile. You could also move a tile from a hidden spot, like behind the toilet.

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2. Cut out the grout and tape the neighborsPut on safety glasses. Turn off the breaker if an outlet or switch is within reach of the tile. Wall tile joints are often 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide, so a thin carbide blade fits best. Put on a dust mask. Run a grout saw back and forth along each joint around the cracked tile. Or use an oscillating tool with a grout blade at low speed. Keep the blade in the center of the joint, and go down until you see adhesive or the wall. Take light passes rather than forcing it. The blade can slip and scratch the next tile. Then put painter's tape along the edges of the tiles around the opening. It helps protect their glaze from chips and slips. Vacuum the dust as you go.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The saw keeps jumping out of the joint Start with short strokes to cut a shallow groove. Then lengthen them. A carbide-tipped hand saw is slower but easier to control than a power tool.

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3. Score an X and tap the tile outWith safety glasses and gloves on, score two lines corner to corner across the tile. Use a glass cutter or a carbide scribe, and press firmly. Hold a cold chisel or a large nail set at the center of the X. Tap it with a hammer in light, controlled taps until the tile breaks. Then work outward toward the edges. Hold the chisel at a low angle and drive toward the center, not toward the good tiles. Remove pieces as they loosen. Never pry against a neighboring tile. If the tile won't break with light taps, score it again rather than hitting harder. Hard blows can crack the backing or the next tile.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • A neighboring tile chipped Stop and check it. A small chip on the edge can often be hidden by grout. A crack means that tile needs replacing too, so work on it the same way.

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4. Scrape the old adhesive flatClean the opening so the new tile can sit flush. Use a stiff putty knife, a margin trowel or the cold chisel held nearly flat to the wall. For hard spots, tap the chisel lightly with the hammer, again at a low angle so you don't gouge the wall. Scrape out loose grout along the edges of the neighboring tiles too. Lay a straightedge across the opening. You need room for the new tile plus a thin layer of adhesive. Vacuum the dust. If the backing is crumbling, soft or wet, stop. In a pre-1980 home, don't sand or grind old adhesive until it's tested for asbestos.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • I gouged the drywall or backer Fill a shallow gouge with a little adhesive and let it set before you tile. A deep or wide hole, or wet backing, needs a patch first.

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5. Set the new tile with adhesive and spacersDry-fit the new tile first. It should sit flush with its neighbors and leave an even joint all around. Spread a thin, even coat of adhesive on the back of the tile. This is called back-buttering. Premixed tile adhesive works for many small wall repairs. In a shower or tub surround, use a product the maker rates for wet areas. Press the tile in with a slight twist until it's flush. Push tile spacers into the joints to center it. Run a few strips of painter's tape across it onto the next tiles so it can't slide. Wipe off adhesive that squeezes out. Let it cure as the label says, often 24 to 48 hours.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The tile sits proud of its neighbors Pull it right away, scrape some adhesive off the wall or tile back, and press it in again. Once the adhesive sets, it's much harder to fix.

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6. Grout, seal and caulkAfter the adhesive cures, pull the spacers and tape. Pick grout by joint width, as the grout maker says. One major brand rates its sanded grout for joints from 1/8 to 1/2 inch and points to non-sanded grout for joints up to 1/8 inch. Many wall tile joints are 1/16 to 1/8 inch, so non-sanded often fits. Press grout into the joints with a rubber float held at an angle. Wipe the haze with a damp sponge. Where the tile meets a tub, counter or inside corner, use matching caulk, not grout. Let cement grout cure as the label says. Then seal it if the maker recommends it.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The new grout is a different color New grout often looks darker or brighter than old grout. A grout colorant pen can help, or regrout the whole small area so it matches.

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Watch it done

How To Replace Bathroom Tiles | Ask This Old HouseBy This Old House on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.

Watch on YouTube

If it comes back

If the new tile cracks again in the same spot, the wall behind is probably moving or wet. Check for soft spots and leaks. In a shower, cracked or missing grout lets water in, so see how to regrout tile for the joints around it.

If the caulk line along the tub or counter keeps splitting or getting moldy, it's time to redo it. See how to recaulk a bathtub. Grout in a corner where two surfaces meet tends to crack, which is why caulk goes there.

If your crack is in a floor tile, the method is similar but the tile and adhesive are thicker. See how to replace a cracked floor tile. For a refresher on controlled taps, see how to use a hammer.