Doors & windows

Weatherstrip an exterior door

If you can see daylight around a closed door, feel a draft or hear more street noise than you should, the weatherstripping has worn out. Replacing it is cheap, takes under an hour, and makes a real difference in drafts and heating bills. Most modern doors take a foam strip that just presses into a slot in the frame. Take a piece of the old strip to the store. There are a dozen profiles, and they don't mix.

Pressing new foam weatherstripping into the door stop of an exterior door frame
Most door weatherstripping pushes into a slot in the door stop.
Quick answerFind the gaps with a sheet of paper, pull out the old weatherstrip, press new strip into the slot in the frame, replace the door sweep, and adjust the threshold until it seals without dragging.
Worth checking firstDo the paper test all the way around first, so you know whether it's the weatherstrip, the sweep or a sagging door.

Good to knowGood first repair

Easy30–60 min$15–40
An exterior door and its frame with the weatherstrip pressed into the slot along the sides and top, the door sweep on the bottom of the door, the adjustable threshold below it, daylight showing through a worn section, and the paper test.
Weatherstrip sits in a slot around the sides and top of the frame (1). A worn spot lets daylight through (2). The door sweep (3) seals against the threshold (4), which often adjusts up and down. The paper test (5) shows where it isn't sealing.

How a door seals

Exterior doors seal in two places: weatherstripping around the sides and top of the frame that the door presses against, and a door sweep or threshold seal at the bottom. Over time foam flattens, rubber cracks and sweeps wear down.

Most steel and fiberglass doors use compression weatherstrip with a fin that pushes into a slot, called a kerf, in the frame. Older wood doors often use adhesive foam, V-shaped strips or strips nailed to the stop.

Why doors get drafty

Flattened or cracked weatherstrip

Worn out from years of use.

A worn door sweep

Gaps at the bottom.

A low threshold

The sweep doesn't reach it.

A sagging door

Gaps wider on one side.

Where is the draft?
You findLikely causeFix
Paper slides out at the sides or topWorn weatherstripReplace the strip.
Light under the doorWorn sweep or low thresholdNew sweep; raise the threshold.
Gap wider at one cornerA sagging doorFix the hinges first.
Draft at the bottom cornersMissing corner padsAdd foam corner pads.
Don't overstuff itDon't use weatherstrip that's too thick. If the door won't latch without shoving, the strip is too big and will strain the lock and hinges.

Let's fix it

0 of 7 done
  1. Find the draftsClose the door on a sheet of paper at several spots around the frame. If it slides out easily, that spot isn't sealing. On a windy day, hold a damp hand or a stick of incense near the edges to feel or see the draft.
    Sheet of paper caught in a closed door and sliding out easily at a worn spot
  2. Pull out the old stripGrab the end of the old weatherstrip and pull it out of the slot in the frame. For adhesive foam, peel it off and scrape the leftover glue with a putty knife. Take a piece to the store so you can match it.
    Old flattened foam weatherstrip being pulled out of the slot in the door frame
  3. Measure and cutMeasure each side and the top of the frame. Cut the new weatherstrip to length with a utility knife or scissors, leaving it a hair long so the corners meet tightly.
    Tape measure along the frame and new weatherstrip cut to length with a utility knife
  4. Install the new stripStarting at the top, press the fin into the slot with your thumb, working along the frame. Then do each side, pushing the ends snugly into the corners. For adhesive strip, clean the surface first and press it on firmly.
    Something went wrong?
    • The door won't latch with the new strip The strip may be too thick. Give it a few days to compress, or switch to a thinner profile.
    Thumb pressing the fin of new foam weatherstrip into the slot in the frame, starting at the top
  5. Replace the door sweepOpen the door and look at the sweep along the bottom. If it's torn or doesn't touch the threshold, slide or unscrew the old one and install a new one of the same type.
    Something went wrong?
    • The new sweep drags on the floor Adjust the sweep up if it's slotted, or lower the threshold screws a little.
    Worn door sweep slid off the bottom of the door and a new one slid into place
  6. Adjust the thresholdMany thresholds have screws that raise the center strip. Turn them a little at a time until the sweep touches it evenly when the door is closed. It should seal without dragging.
    Screwdriver raising the center strip of an adjustable threshold until the sweep touches it
  7. Test the doorClose and lock the door. It should latch without slamming. Repeat the paper test; the paper should feel snug everywhere.
    Door closing and latching easily, with the paper now held snug everywhere

Watch it done

How To Replace A Door Weatherstrip Seal [Easy DIY]By HouseImprovements on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • Paper closed in the door feels snug everywhere
  • The sweep touches the threshold evenly
  • The door latches without slamming
  • No draft on a windy day

Gap wider at the top latch side? The door is sagging.

If it's still drafty

If the storm door won't close on its own, there's a separate guide for a storm door that won't close.

If the gap is wider at the top on the latch side, the door is sagging. Tightening the hinge screws, or replacing one screw in the top hinge with a 3-inch screw that reaches the , often pulls it back square before you weatherstrip.

If cold still comes in under the door, check the threshold and the corners at the bottom. Small foam corner pads fill the gap where the weatherstrip and sweep meet.

Retest after a few daysDo the paper test again after a few days. New foam compresses a little, and the latch may need a small adjustment.
Renting?If you rent, ask your landlord; they often supply the weatherstrip.
Get help ifThe frame or threshold is rotted, the door is warped, there are large uneven gaps that point to a sagging door, or the door doesn't close square in the frame.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A handyman typically charges $100–$250 to weatherstrip an exterior door, including materials.

Find a handyman near you

Something else going on?

Door weatherstripping questions

How do I know if my door weatherstripping is bad?

Close the door on a sheet of paper. If it slides out easily, or you can see daylight, the strip isn't sealing.

What type of weatherstrip do I need?

Most steel and fiberglass doors use a foam strip that presses into a slot. Take a piece of the old one to the store to match it.

Why won't my door latch after new weatherstripping?

The strip may be too thick. Try a thinner one or adjust the strike plate slightly.

How often should door weatherstripping be replaced?

When it's flattened, cracked or torn, often every few years on a busy door.

How do I stop a draft under the door?

Replace the door sweep and adjust the threshold until it seals without dragging.

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About the authors

GrabTheHammer Team

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We're a small team of writers and editors who check every guide against manufacturer instructions and common code requirements. Our goal is to help you understand the problem, tackle what you safely can and know when to call a pro.

Checked against: Manufacturer instructions for the parts and products involved, U.S. Department of Energy, ENERGY STAR.

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A helpful next stepStorm door won't closeRelease the hold-open washer, adjust the closer's speed screw, tighten loose brackets, move the latch strike, raise a dragging bottom sweep, and replace a stretched wind chain or a worn closer.