Doors & windows

Storm door won't close

A storm door that won't close all the way, slams, or closes but won't latch usually needs a small adjustment to its closer, the air-filled tube near the top or bottom of the door. A screw on the end of the closer sets how fast it closes, and the strike plate on the frame sets whether the latch catches. If that doesn't do it, look for a loose bracket, a door dragging on its sweep, or a closer that's worn out. One screw on the end of the closer fixes most storm doors.

Turning the adjusting screw on the end of a storm door's pneumatic closer
The screw on the closer's end sets how fast the door swings shut.
Quick answerRelease the hold-open washer, then turn the closer's adjustment screw: counterclockwise to close faster, clockwise to slow it. Tighten loose brackets and line up the strike.
Worth checking firstCheck the square washer on the closer rod. If it's slid against the cylinder, it's just holding the door open.
Easy15–60 min$0–40
Inside view of an aluminum storm door in its frame: the pneumatic closer tube near the top pinned to a bracket on the door frame and a bracket on the door, the adjustment screw on the end of the cylinder that sets closing speed, the square hold-open washer on the closer rod, the wind chain beside the closer, the latch on the door and the strike plate on the frame, the hinge rail along the opposite edge, and the adjustable bottom expander with its sweep along the threshold.
The closer (1) pulls the door shut and its screw (2) sets the speed. Check the hold-open washer (3), the wind chain (4), the latch and strike (5), the hinge rail (6) and the bottom expander (7).

How a storm door closer works

Most storm doors use one or two pneumatic closers. Each is a cylinder with a spring and piston, pinned to a bracket on the door frame at one end and a bracket on the door at the other. The spring pulls the door shut, and air escaping through a small adjustable valve slows it down. A square washer on the closer's rod is the hold-open washer; slid against the cylinder with the door open, it keeps the door from closing.

A wind chain or a second spring usually runs alongside to stop the door from swinging too far open. When a gust catches a door without one, it can bend the closer rod or pull the frame bracket out of the wood. Temperature changes matter too: closers often close slower in cold weather and faster in heat, so a door that worked in summer may stall in winter.

Why storm doors won't close

The closer needs adjusting

The speed screw is set too slow or too fast.

Loose or stripped brackets

The closer can't pull against the frame.

A misaligned latch and strike

The door reaches the frame but won't catch.

A worn closer or broken chain

Slams, leaks or bends after wind.

What's happening?
You noticeLikely causeStart at
Door stays openHold-open washer engagedStep 1
Stops short of the frameCloser set too slowStep 2
Slams shutCloser set too fastStep 2
Bracket wobbles or pulled outStripped screwsStep 3
Touches the frame but won't catchStrike out of lineStep 4
Scrapes the thresholdBottom sweep too lowStep 5
Slams no matter the settingWorn closerStep 7
Mind the springKeep fingers away from the hinge side and the latch when testing a fast door. Closers are spring loaded, so hold the door open and lock the hold-open washer before pulling a pin, or the closer can snap back.

Let's fix it

0 of 8 done
  1. Release the hold-open washerLook at the square washer on the closer's rod. If it's slid up against the cylinder, it's holding the door open. Open the door a little wider and the washer should drop loose; slide it back toward the door end of the rod. If it won't release, the rod may be bent, which means a new closer.
    Square hold-open washer slid against the end of the closer cylinder holding the door open, then the door opened a little wider so the washer drops loose and slides back toward the door end of the rod
  2. Adjust the closing speedFind the adjustment screw in the end cap of the , usually the end mounted to the frame bracket on the hinge side. Turn it clockwise to slow the door, counterclockwise to speed it up, a quarter turn at a time, testing after each turn. If the door stops short of latching, speed it up a little. If it has two closers, adjust both by the same amount so they work together.
    Something went wrong?
    • Turning the screw changes nothing The closer has likely lost air or oil inside. Replace it.
    Screwdriver turning the adjustment screw on the end of the closer cylinder, clockwise to slow the door and counterclockwise to speed it up, a quarter turn at a time
  3. Tighten the bracketsCheck the bracket on the door frame and the bracket on the door. Tighten any loose screws. If a frame bracket screw just spins, the wood is stripped: fill the holes with glue-dipped toothpicks and let them set, or use longer screws that reach solid wood. A bracket that keeps pulling out may need to move slightly to fresh wood, using the closer's instructions for spacing.
    Something went wrong?
    • The bracket screws just spin Fill the holes with glue and toothpicks, or use longer screws into solid wood.
    Closer bracket on the door frame with a stripped screw hole filled with glue-dipped toothpicks, and a longer screw driven into solid wood to hold the bracket tight
  4. Adjust the latch and strikeIf the door reaches the frame but won't catch, watch where the latch meets the strike plate on the frame. Loosen the strike screws, shift it up, down or outward until the latch drops in, and retighten. Spray a little silicone into the latch so it snaps freely. Check that the door's latch isn't set to lock or hold open.
    Storm door latch meeting the strike plate on the frame, the strike screws loosened and the plate shifted until the latch drops in, then a little silicone sprayed into the latch
  5. Check for dragging and loose hingesOpen and close the door slowly by hand with the closer set to its fastest, or disconnected after you lock the hold-open washer and pull the door-end pin. If the bottom sweep drags on the threshold, loosen the screws on the bottom expander, the adjustable channel at the base of the door, raise it slightly and retighten. Tighten the screws along the hinge rail, since a sagging door can bind in the frame.
    Bottom of the storm door with the sweep dragging on the threshold, the expander screws loosened and the expander raised slightly, and screws along the hinge rail tightened
  6. Replace the wind chainIf the chain is stretched, broken or missing, replace it with a wind chain kit from a hardware store. Attach it between the door and frame brackets so it stops the door before it swings far enough to strain the closer or hinge. A chain with a spring helps soften the stop when wind catches the door.
    Wind chain with a spring attached between the door bracket and the frame bracket, stopping the door before it swings far enough to strain the closer or hinge
  7. Replace a worn closerIf the door slams no matter how you set the screw, the closer leaks oil, or the rod is bent, replace it. Measure the old closer's length and match it, along with its duty rating, standard or heavy duty, to the door's weight. Open the door and lock the hold-open washer, then pull the pins and remove the old closer. Pin the new one into the same brackets, release the washer, and set the speed.
    Door held open with the hold-open washer locked before pulling the pins from both brackets, an old closer leaking oil with a bent rod, and a new closer of the same length and duty rating pinned into the same brackets
  8. Fine-tune with the seasonsClosers change with temperature, so check the speed when the weather turns cold and again when it gets hot. A small turn of the screw is usually all it takes. Swapping the glass panel for the screen, or the reverse, also changes the door's weight and may need a touch-up.
    Snowflake beside a slow-closing door and a sun beside a fast one, with a small turn of the closer screw noted for each change of season

Watch it done

How to Fix a Storm Door That Won't Shut - Adjust door closerBy Cleaning Machines on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • The door closes on its own and latches
  • It doesn't slam
  • The brackets stay put when it closes

Slams no matter the setting? Replace the closer.

If it's the main door

If the main entry door behind it sticks or won't latch, check our guide for a door that won't latch.

If cold air comes in around the main door, there's a separate guide for weatherstripping a door.

Use the washer, keep the chainUse the hold-open washer instead of propping the door when you carry things in, and keep the wind chain hooked up. One strong gust can bend the closer or rip its bracket out of the frame.
Renting?If you rent, adjusting the closer screw is fine. Report broken parts.
Call a handyman ifThe storm door's frame is bent or pulling away from the house, the wood behind it is rotted, the door doesn't fit the opening, or you'd rather replace the whole door.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A handyman typically charges $75–$150 to adjust or replace a storm door closer, $100–$200 to repair a stripped or rotted spot where a bracket mounts, and $300–$700 to install a new storm door with the door included.

Find a handyman near you

Something else going on?

Storm door closer questions

How do I adjust a storm door closer?

Turn the screw on the end of the closer cylinder: clockwise to slow it, counterclockwise to speed it up, a quarter turn at a time.

Why won't my storm door close all the way?

The closer may be set too slow, the hold-open washer may be engaged, or the latch strike is out of line.

Why does my storm door slam?

The closer is set too fast or is worn out. If adjusting the screw doesn't help, replace the closer.

Why does my storm door close slower in winter?

Cold changes how the closer works, so a small seasonal adjustment is normal.

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GrabTheHammer Team

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We're a small team of writers and editors who check every guide against manufacturer instructions and common code requirements. Our goal is to help you understand the problem, tackle what you safely can and know when to call a pro.

Checked against: Manufacturer instructions for the parts and products involved.

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A helpful next stepWeatherstrip an exterior doorFind the gaps, replace the worn weatherstrip around the door and the sweep at the bottom.