Fix a door that sticks or won't latch
Before you reach for sandpaper, check the hinges. A door that rubs at the top corner or won't latch has often sagged rather than swelled. Sometimes, a longer screw in the top hinge is all it takes to get things lined up again. Look at the gap around the door once it's closed. If it's tight at the top on the latch side and wide at the bottom, the hinges are the culprit.
Why doors sag
Door hinges hold a lot of weight, and the top hinge carries most of it. The screws that come with most doors are short, about 3/4 inch, and only grip the thin door jamb. Over time they loosen, the door tips toward the latch side, and its top corner starts rubbing. A 3 inch screw reaches through the jamb into the wall behind it and pulls everything back into place.
What makes a door stick
It carries most of the door's weight. Short screws only grip the thin jamb and loosen over time.
The latch hits the plate instead of dropping into the hole.
Wood doors swell slightly in humid weather, especially unpainted edges.
New cracks at door corners plus sticking doors can mean the frame has shifted.
| Rub marks or sticking at | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Top corner on the latch side | Loose top hinge, door sagging | Long screw in the top hinge. |
| Bottom corner on the hinge side | Loose bottom hinge | Tighten or long screw in the bottom hinge. |
| Latch hits above or below the strike | Door or strike out of line | Adjust or file the strike plate. |
| All along one edge, only in summer | Humidity swelling | Tighten hinges. Sand lightly only if needed, then seal. |
Pull the door back into line
- Find where it rubsClose the door slowly and look for the gap. Rubbing at the top on the latch side usually means the top hinge is loose. Rub marks or worn paint show you exactly where.
- Tighten every hinge screwStart with what you have. Tighten all the screws on every hinge. If one just spins, the hole is stripped.
- Swap in a long screwRemove one screw from the top hinge, the one closest to the stop molding, and drive in a 3 inch screw. Snug it until the gap evens out, but don't overdrive it, which can bow the jamb.
- Test and repeat if neededClose the door. If it still rubs, replace a second screw on the top hinge.
- Fix the latch if neededIf it closes but won't latch, look at the strike plate for marks showing where the latch hits. File the opening slightly or move the plate.
Watch it done
- The door closes without rubbing
- There's an even gap around the door
- The latch catches and holds the door shut
- All hinge screws are tight, with none spinning
Latch still won't catch? Use lipstick on the latch to see where it hits.
If the door closes but the latch misses
If the latch still doesn't catch, close the door slowly and watch where the latch meets the strike plate. Lipstick on the latch leaves a mark showing where it hits.
If it's a storm door that won't close or latch, adjust its closer and strike.
An interior door that won't stay closed but latches fine may just need the strike plate's tab bent slightly inward with pliers.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A handyman typically charges $75–$200 to adjust a door.
Find a handyman near you