Bathroom

Shower faucet dripping

A shower faucet dripping long after you turn it off almost always needs a new cartridge or, on older two- and three-handle faucets, new washers and seats. A few drips right after you shut it off is just water draining out of the shower head. Cartridges aren't interchangeable, so take the old one with you to the store or find the brand and model before you buy. The fix for a dripping shower is behind the handle, not at the shower head.

Pulling an old cartridge out of a shower valve with pliers, the new cartridge and trim on a towel
A worn cartridge is the usual cause of a single-handle shower drip.
Quick answerShut off the water, remove the handle and trim plate, pull the retaining clip or nut, and replace the cartridge with an exact match. On two-handle faucets, replace the washers and seats.
Worth checking firstWait five minutes after shutting the shower off. If the dripping stops, it was the head draining and nothing needs fixing.

Good to knowWeekend project

Moderate1–2 hours$15–80
Exploded view of a single-handle shower faucet in front of the wall: the handle and its screw or set screw, the round trim plate, the retaining clip that holds the cartridge, the cartridge with its rubber O-rings, and the brass valve body inside the wall with hot and cold supply pipes, the pipe up to the shower head and the built-in shutoff screws on each side. Water dripping from the shower head shows the worn cartridge no longer seals.
The drip comes from a worn cartridge (4) inside the valve body (5). Take off the handle (1) and trim plate (2), close the shutoffs (6), and pull the retaining clip (3) to get it out.

How a shower valve works

Most single-handle shower faucets control both the flow and the temperature with a cartridge, a plastic or brass part that sits in a valve body inside the wall. Rubber seals and O-rings on the cartridge, or on the seats and springs at the back of the valve on many Delta faucets, wear out and collect mineral scale. Once they stop sealing completely, water seeps past and drips from the shower head or tub spout.

Older faucets with separate hot and cold handles use compression stems instead. Turning the handle drives a rubber washer onto a brass seat, and over time the washer hardens and the seat gets rough. Either way, the fix happens at the valve behind the handle, not at the shower head. A drip only at the shower head's threads is a different problem.

Why shower faucets drip

Worn cartridge seals

The O-rings stop sealing and water seeps past.

Mineral buildup

Scale keeps the cartridge from closing fully.

Worn seats and springs

Common on Delta valves, at the back of the valve.

Worn washers and seats

On older two- and three-handle faucets.

What's happening?
You noticeLikely causeStart at
Drips for a minute, then stopsHead draining, normalStep 1
Steady drip from a single-handle faucetWorn cartridgeStep 6
Delta faucet still drips with a new cartridgeSeats and springsStep 6
Drip from a two-handle faucetWorn washer or seatStep 8
Hot and cold reversed after repairCartridge turned aroundStep 9
Water off, then check for scaldingShut off the water before removing the cartridge; the valve is under full house water pressure. After the repair, make sure hot and cold aren't reversed and the limit stop keeps the water from getting hot enough to scald, especially for children and older adults. Don't force a seized cartridge, which can crack the valve body inside the wall.

Let's fix it

0 of 9 done
  1. Make sure it's the valveRun the shower, turn it off and wait. Dripping that stops within a few minutes is water draining from the shower head, which is normal. A steady drip that keeps going, or a trickle from the tub spout, means the valve isn't sealing. Look on the handle or trim plate for a brand name, and take a photo of the whole faucet.
    Shower head dripping after the faucet is turned off, with a timer showing that a few drips in the first minutes are normal draining while a steady drip after five minutes or more means the valve
  2. Shut off the waterIf there's an access panel on the other side of the wall with shutoffs, close them. Otherwise close the for now; many valves also have built-in shutoff screws on each side that you can close once the trim plate is off in Step 4. Open the faucet to drain the line and confirm the water is off, and put a rag in the drain so small parts can't fall in.
    Trim plate removed showing the built-in shutoff screws on each side of the valve turned with a flathead screwdriver, or the main shutoff closed, and a rag in the drain
  3. Take off the handlePry off the decorative cap if there is one, then remove the screw under it, or loosen the small set screw on the underside of the handle with an Allen wrench. Pull the handle straight off. Take a photo at each step so you can put it back the same way.
    Decorative cap pried off, the screw under it removed with a Phillips screwdriver, or a small set screw loosened with an Allen wrench under the handle, then the handle pulled straight off
  4. Remove the trim plateUnscrew the trim plate, also called the escutcheon, and pull it away from the wall. Cut through any caulk around it first with a utility knife. Slide off any sleeve or stop tube over the valve. With the valve exposed, close the built-in shutoffs if your valve has them.
    Trim plate screws removed and the plate pulled away from the wall after cutting old caulk, exposing the valve and any sleeve over it
  5. Release the retaining clip or nutLook at how the cartridge is held in. Many Moen valves use a U-shaped metal clip at the top of the valve that you pull out with pliers; many Delta valves use a bonnet nut you unscrew; others use a brass retaining nut. Before going further, note or photograph which way the cartridge stem faces, since it has to go back the same way.
    Pliers pulling a U-shaped retaining clip out of the top of the valve, with notes that some valves use a bonnet nut instead, and a mark showing which way the cartridge stem faces
  6. Pull out the cartridgeGrip the cartridge stem with pliers and pull it straight out, rocking gently. Mineral buildup can hold it tight; a cartridge puller made for your brand pulls it without damaging the valve body. Don't twist hard on the valve body inside the wall. On Delta valves, use a small screwdriver to lift out the rubber seats and springs at the back of the valve too, since they're often the actual cause of the drip.
    Something went wrong?
    • The cartridge won't budge Use the brand's cartridge puller instead of twisting with pliers, which can crack the valve body.
    Pliers gripping the cartridge stem and pulling it straight out of the valve body, a brand-specific cartridge puller as the option for a stuck cartridge, and on Delta valves the rubber seats and springs lifted from the back of the valve
  7. Install the exact replacementTake the old cartridge to the store or order by the faucet's model, and buy the exact match; on Delta valves, replace the seats and springs as well. Coat the O-rings lightly with silicone faucet grease, line the new cartridge up the same way as the old one, and push it in until it's fully seated. Reinstall the clip or nut.
    Old worn cartridge beside a new matching cartridge, silicone grease applied to the new O-rings, and the new one pushed in facing the same way as the old one
  8. Replace washers and seats on two-handle faucetsOn a faucet with separate hot and cold handles, remove each handle and trim, then unscrew the stem with a deep shower valve socket. Replace the rubber washer on the end of the stem and its brass screw. Look into the valve at the brass seat; if it's pitted or rough, remove it with a seat wrench and install a matching new one, or a new washer will wear out fast.
    Two-handle shower valve with the stem unscrewed using a deep shower valve socket, the hardened rubber washer and brass screw on the end of the stem replaced, and a pitted brass seat removed with a seat wrench
  9. Turn the water on and testOpen the shutoffs or main slowly and check for leaks at the valve. Run the shower and check that hot and cold are on the right sides; if they're reversed, the cartridge needs to be rotated, often half a turn, per the maker's instructions. Check or set the rotational limit stop so the hottest setting can't scald, following the faucet's instructions. Put the trim and handle back on and confirm there's no drip after 10 minutes.
    Something went wrong?
    • Hot and cold are reversed Pull the cartridge and rotate it, often half a turn, then reinstall it.
    • It still drips with a new cartridge On Delta valves, replace the seats and springs too. On others, make sure the cartridge is fully seated.
    Water turned back on slowly, the shower run to check hot is on the correct side, the rotational limit stop set so the hottest setting can't scald, and the trim reinstalled with no drip after ten minutes

Watch it done

This Tool is a MUSTBy The Amateur Homeowner on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • No drip from the head or spout 10 minutes after shutoff
  • Hot and cold are on the correct sides
  • The handle turns smoothly

Still dripping? Check the seats and springs, or that the cartridge is fully seated.

If the leak is somewhere else

If water comes out of the shower head and tub spout at the same time, check our guide for a shower diverter not working.

If the leak is at the shower head's threads rather than a drip from the face, there's a separate guide for replacing a shower head.

Keep parts in orderLay each part on a towel in the order it came off, and bring the old cartridge with you when you buy the new one. Matching it in person saves a second trip.
Renting?If you rent, report a dripping shower; cartridge work is usually the landlord's.
Call a plumber ifThe cartridge is seized and a puller won't free it, the valve body is cracked or leaking inside the wall, there's no way to shut off the water, or you want to replace the whole valve, which means opening the wall.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A plumber typically charges $150–$350 to replace a shower cartridge with the part included, and $400–$1,000 or more to replace the whole shower valve when the wall has to be opened.

Find a plumber near you

Something else going on?

Dripping shower faucet questions

Why does my shower keep dripping after I turn it off?

A few minutes of drips is water draining from the head. A steady drip means the cartridge or washers in the valve are worn.

Can I replace a shower cartridge myself?

Usually, yes, with the water shut off, basic tools, and an exact replacement cartridge for your faucet's brand and model.

How do I know which shower cartridge I need?

Take the old one to the store, or look up the faucet by brand and model. Cartridges aren't interchangeable.

Why is my shower hot and cold reversed after replacing the cartridge?

The cartridge went in rotated. Most can be turned half a turn to fix it; follow the maker's instructions.

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GrabTheHammer Team

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We're a small team of writers and editors who check every guide against manufacturer instructions and common code requirements. Our goal is to help you understand the problem, tackle what you safely can and know when to call a pro.

Checked against: Manufacturer instructions for the parts and products involved, EPA WaterSense.

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A helpful next stepShower diverter not workingClean scale off the tub spout diverter, replace a worn spout (slip-on or threaded), or replace the cartridge in a separate diverter handle.