Replace broken or sagging lattice skirting around a deck

How deck lattice skirting is held up

Lattice is a thin sheet of crisscrossed strips. It can't hold itself up. It hangs on a frame of 2x4 nailers that run between the deck posts, usually one near the top and one near the bottom, with blocking between them on longer runs. The panel is nailed or screwed to that frame, and trim strips cover the cut edges.

Skirting fails from the bottom up. The lowest nailer sits close to wet soil and splashing rain, so it often rots first. The Treated Wood Council says wood used in the ground or within 6 inches of it should be rated for ground contact. It also recommends hot-dip galvanized or stainless fasteners in treated wood, and a brush-on preservative on cut ends. Vinyl lattice doesn't rot, but it grows and shrinks with heat. Makers like RDI say to leave about a 1/4 inch gap and not to tighten the fasteners.

Why deck lattice breaks or sags

Let's fix it

1. Look and listen under the deck firstPut on gloves. Shine a flashlight through the damaged spot and along the bottom edge of the skirting. Look for fresh digging, a worn path, droppings, fur or nesting material. Sniff for a musky smell. Listen for a few minutes. If you find signs that an animal is living there, stop. Don't block the hole, and don't reach in. Call a wildlife control pro, who can make sure it's out before you close up. If the hole looks old and quiet, loosely stuff it with crumpled newspaper and wait a day or two. Paper still in place usually means nobody is using it. Then decide what you're fixing. A cracked panel on a firm frame goes to Step 2. A sagging panel goes to Step 3.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The paper was pushed out overnight Something is still using the hole. Leave it open and call a wildlife pro.

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2. Pry off the trim and old panelWear safety glasses and gloves. Start with the trim strips that cover the panel's edges. Tap the thin end of a flat pry bar behind a strip with short, controlled hammer taps. Slide a scrap block of wood under the bar so it presses on the block, not the post. Lever gently near each nail and work along the strip. Pull it free and set it aside if it's sound. Then pry the panel the same way, a little at each nail, until it comes off. Pull or bend over every old nail left in the frame, using the hammer claw over the scrap block. Old vinyl may be brittle; it can snap, so keep your face out of line. If a nailer crumbles as you pry, you've found the real problem. Go to Step 3.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The bar is denting the post Use a wider scrap block and lift in smaller moves.
   • A nail head snapped off Drive the stub below the surface with a nail set so nothing snags the new panel.

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3. Probe the frame and replace soft nailersWith the panel off, look at the 2x4 nailers between the posts. Press a flathead screwdriver into each one, mainly the bottom one and the ends. Firm wood only dents. If the tip sinks in or the wood is dark and crumbly, replace that piece. Measure between the posts and cut new treated 2x4s to fit. If the nailer is within 6 inches of the soil, buy lumber rated for ground contact; the tag on the end says which. Brush preservative on the cut ends. Fasten it to the posts with two hot-dip galvanized or stainless nails or screws at each end. On runs longer than about 24 inches, add a vertical block in the middle. If a post is soft, loose or leaning, stop. That's deck structure, so call a deck builder.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The new nailer sits out of line with the old one Shim it or trim it so the panel will lie flat against the whole frame.

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4. Measure and cut the new latticeMeasure the opening at the top and the bottom, and use the smaller number. Measure the height from the top edge of the top nailer down to about 1 inch above the soil. That gap helps the bottom dry out and keeps grass and wet soil off it. Wood lattice should be pressure-treated or a rot-resistant species. For vinyl, check the maker's sheet. RDI says to leave about a 1/4 inch gap on every side for expansion, so take that off your size. Lay the sheet across two sawhorses with boards under it on both sides of the cut. Mark the line and wear safety glasses. Cut slowly with a fine-tooth blade in a circular saw. The support keeps the strips from flapping, splintering or pinching the blade.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The strips splintered at the cut Clamp a straight board along the line and use a finer blade at a slow feed.
   • The panel is a little short Trim strips can hide up to about an inch. Wider gaps need a new panel.

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5. Nail through the crossings into the frameUse hot-dip galvanized or stainless nails or screws long enough to pass through the lattice and well into the nailer. About 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches is common for thin lattice. Hold the panel in place on small blocks so it stays about 1 inch off the soil. Wear safety glasses. Drive each nail through a spot where two strips cross, because that's the thickest point and it won't split as easily. Place one every 8 to 12 inches along each nailer. Use light, controlled hammer taps and stop when the head just touches the wood. For vinyl, drill a hole larger than the nail or screw shank and leave the head slightly loose. RDI suggests supports about every 24 inches and says not to overtighten. Push the panel. It should feel firm, not floppy.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • A strip cracked under the hammer Move to the next crossing and pre-drill a small pilot hole there.
   • Vinyl is bowing out The fasteners are too tight. Back them off a little so the panel can slide.

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6. Cap with trim, add access and seal endsNail the trim strips back over the top and side edges, or cut new ones from treated 1x4 or vinyl lattice cap. Set the nails into the post or nailer, not just the lattice. For vinyl, leave the gap the maker calls for inside the cap. If you'll need to get under the deck for hose bibs or storage, think about an access panel. Frame one section as a small door on galvanized hinges, with a hook or a few screws to hold it shut. If any cut edge of wood lattice or trim is still exposed, brush wood preservative on it. Ideally do this right after cutting in Step 4, before the panel goes up, since treatment may not reach the core.
   Done

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Watch it done

Adding Wood Lattice Under Skirting Around a Deck FoundationBy Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.

Watch on YouTube

If it comes back

If the panel sags again, the nailer behind it may be rotting or the nails may have rusted. Probe the frame and switch to hot-dip galvanized or stainless fasteners. Our hammer guide covers pulling old nails without splitting the wood.

If the deck boards above are soft or loose, see replacing a deck board or fixing popped deck nails. Sealing wood lattice along with the deck slows weathering; see cleaning and sealing a wood deck.

If animals keep digging under, the gap may be too big or the lattice too weak at the bottom. A wildlife pro can suggest a barrier. If the deck stairs are loose too, fixing a loose deck stair tread walks through it.