Replace a broken fence picket
A single cracked or rotted picket is easy to replace: pry the old one off the rails, cut a new one to match, and fasten it with exterior-rated nails or screws. The only fussy part is matching the height, spacing and top shape of the pickets on either side. New pickets won't match the weathered ones at first, but they usually blend in after a season or two outside.


How a fence is put together
Most wood fences are pickets nailed to two or three horizontal rails, and the rails are attached to posts. A picket that's split, warped or soft at the bottom can come off without disturbing its neighbors if you work the nails loose carefully.
Before you buy lumber, measure the old picket's width, thickness and length, and note the top: dog-ear, flat, pointed or rounded. Take a piece with you if you can.
Why pickets fail
Pickets touching soil or wet grass stay damp.
Sun, weather, and nails driven too close to the ends.
Balls, mowers and falling branches.
Nails work out as the wood moves.
| What you see | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| One cracked or rotted picket | Age or impact | Replace the picket. |
| Pickets loose but sound | Loose nails | Refasten with exterior screws. |
| Several pickets leaning together | A loose or rotted rail | Fix the rail first. |
| The fence leans along a section | A failed post | Call a fence pro. |
Replace the picket, step by step
- Pry off the broken picketSlide a flat pry bar between the picket and the rail next to a nail, with a scrap block behind the bar to protect the rail. Work it loose at each rail, then pull or clip the leftover nails. If you can reach the back of the fence, tapping the picket off the rails from behind with a hammer and a block is often easier.

- Check the railsPress on the rails where the picket was. If they're soft, cracked or pulling away from the post, fix that first; a new picket won't hold on rotten rails.

- Cut the new picket to matchLay the old picket, or a neighbor's measurements, on the new board, mark the length and top shape, and cut it.

- Set the height and gapLine the new picket up with its neighbors at the top and match the gap on each side. A scrap of wood cut to the gap width makes a handy spacer.

- Fasten itDrive two exterior-rated nails or screws into each rail, staggered slightly and kept back from the ends of the picket. Check it's plumb with a level before the last one.

- Seal it to matchStain or seal the new picket so it weathers with the rest. New pressure-treated wood often needs a few weeks to dry first; check the stain's label.

Watch it done
- The new picket lines up with its neighbors at the top
- The gap on each side matches the others
- It's plumb and doesn't move when you push on it
- Two fasteners hold it at each rail
Picket sitting high or low? Pull one fastener per rail and adjust.
If the new picket doesn't match
If the new picket looks too new, it will weather over a season or two, or you can stain it to blend in once it's dry enough.
If it sits higher or lower than its neighbors, pull one fastener at each rail, adjust, and refasten. On a long run, a string line across the tops helps.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A fence repair pro typically charges $100–$300 for small repairs, more if posts need resetting.
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