Doors & windows

Door rattles when closed

A door that rattles when it's closed has a little space between the door and the stop it closes against, so drafts and the furnace blower knock it back and forth. Bending the tab on the strike plate usually fixes it in five minutes. If the gap is bigger, moving the strike plate or the door stop molding closer with a hammer and a few finish nails takes it out for good. A bent tab on the strike is the five minute fix.

Quick answerBend the tab on the strike plate toward the stop so the latch holds the door tighter. For a bigger gap, move the strike plate, add soft bumpers to the stop, or tap the stop molding closer to the door and renail it.
Worth checking firstTry bending the strike plate tab first. It fixes most rattles in a few minutes.
Easy10–45 min$0–15
Top-down cutaway of a closed door in its jamb: the latch bolt sits in the strike plate with a small gap, the face of the door is a little away from the door stop molding, and arrows show the door rocking. Fixes are labeled: bend the strike plate tab toward the stop, move the strike plate closer to the stop, add soft bumpers on the stop, or tap the stop molding toward the door and renail it.
The latch (1) sits in the strike with a gap (4) between the door and the stop (3). Bend the tab (2), add a bumper (5), or move the strike or stop closer (6).

Why a closed door can still move

When a door closes, its latch slips into the strike plate on the jamb, and the face of the door rests against a thin strip of wood called the stop. The latch holds it in, and the stop keeps it from swinging past. If the latch sits loosely in the strike, the door can move back and forth between the latch and the stop.

That gap shows up when wood shrinks in dry weather, when the strike plate was set a little too far from the stop, or when the stop molding was nailed on with a gap. Air moving through the house, especially when the furnace or AC runs, rocks the door and you hear it tap.

What makes a door rattle

Strike set too far from the stop

The latch sits loose.

Wood shrinkage

Dry seasons open a gap.

Stop nailed with a gap

The door rocks along its edge.

Worn latch

The bolt no longer fills the strike.

What's happening?
You noticeLikely causeStart at
Moves only at the latchLoose strikeStep 2
Gap of more than 1/8 inchStrike too far outStep 3
Rocks along the whole edgeStop molding gapStep 5
Tiny tap with the furnace onSmall gapStep 4
Fingers clear, keep the sealsKeep your fingers clear of the latch side when testing the door. Wear safety glasses when hammering and when bending metal tabs, which can snap. If it's an exterior or fire-rated door, don't remove its weatherstrip or seals to make room.

Let's fix it

0 of 6 done
  1. Find where it movesClose the door and push and pull on it near the latch, the top and the bottom. If it moves at the latch, the strike is the issue. If it rocks at the top or bottom corner, the stop or the door's shape is. Look at the gap between the door and the stop when it's closed.
    Hand pushing and pulling a closed door near the latch, with arrows showing it moving slightly in the frame
  2. Bend the strike plate tabOpen the door and look at the strike plate. Many have a small metal tab inside the latch hole. Bend that tab slightly toward the stop with a flathead screwdriver or pliers so the latch is held tighter. Close the door to test it; it should latch firmly without slamming.
    Something went wrong?
    • The tab broke off Replace the strike plate; they're inexpensive and use the same screws.
    Flathead screwdriver bending the small tab inside a strike plate slightly toward the door stop
  3. Move the strike plateIf there's no tab or the gap is more than about 1/8 inch, unscrew the strike, file or chisel the jamb mortise a little toward the stop, and reset the plate closer to the stop. Fill the old screw holes with glued toothpicks first so the screws bite.
    Strike plate unscrewed, the mortise widened toward the stop with a chisel, and old screw holes filled with glued toothpicks
  4. Add bumpers or weatherstripFor a small rattle, stick two or three soft bumpers or a thin strip of foam weatherstrip on the face of the stop where the door touches it. The door then presses against something soft and stops knocking.
    Soft clear bumpers stuck to the face of the door stop where the closing door touches it
  5. Move the door stopIf the door rocks along its whole edge, score the paint along the stop with a utility knife, gently pry it loose with a putty knife and small pry bar, and set it back against the closed door so it just touches, about a business card's thickness of play. If it's only slightly off, you can instead tap it over with a hammer and a scrap block. Drive 1 1/4 inch finish nails every 12 inches to hold it in place, set the nails and fill the holes.
    Something went wrong?
    • Now the door is hard to close The stop went too far. Tap it back a little and renail.
    Hammer and a scrap block tapping the door stop molding toward the closed door, with a utility knife scoring the paint line first
  6. Test and touch upClose the door, push on it, and run the furnace fan or open a window to check that it's quiet. Touch up paint where the stop moved and caulk any small gap along its edge.
    Door closed with the furnace vent blowing nearby and no movement, with touch-up paint on the moved stop

Watch it done

How to Adjust a Rattling Door in 90 SecondsBy Driveway Dudes on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.
Watch on YouTube
How you'll know it's fixed
  • The door doesn't move when pushed closed
  • It's quiet with the furnace running
  • It still latches without slamming

Still rattles? Check that the door isn't warped by laying a straightedge on it.

If it won't latch at all

If the door won't latch at all, see the guide for a door that won't latch.

If the door swings open or closed on its own, see the guide for that problem.

Fix it in seasonFix rattles in the season they happen. A door tightened in humid summer can bind in winter, and one tightened in dry winter can stick in summer.
Renting?If you rent, stick-on bumpers are an easy, removable fix.
Call a handyman ifThe door is warped, the jamb is cracked or loose, the frame is out of square so several adjustments don't help, or it's a fire-rated door that has to keep its hardware and seals as installed. A worn or loose latch bolt needs a new latch.Fix it yourself or call? Compare the cost →

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A handyman typically charges $75–$150 to adjust a strike plate and door stop on one or two doors.

Find a handyman near you

Something else going on?

Rattling door questions

Why does my door rattle when it's closed?

There's a small gap between the door and the stop, so the door moves on its latch when air pushes it.

How do I stop a door from rattling?

Bend the strike plate tab toward the stop, move the strike closer, add soft bumpers to the stop, or move the stop molding closer to the door.

What is the tab on a strike plate for?

It sets how tightly the latch holds the door. Bending it toward the stop pulls the door tighter.

How do I move a door stop?

Score the paint, tap the stop toward the closed door with a hammer and a block until it just touches, and renail it.

Why does my door rattle when the furnace turns on?

The blower changes the air pressure between rooms and rocks a loose door.

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GrabTheHammer Team

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A helpful next stepFix a door that sticks or won't latchCheck the top hinge first. A longer screw often pulls the door back into line.