Carpentry

How to toenail a board

Toenailing means driving nails at an angle through the side of one board into another, when you can't nail straight through. It's how a stud gets fastened to a plate, a block goes in between joists, or a post gets tied to a beam. The tricks are starting the nail in the right spot, getting the angle right, and keeping the board from sliding as you hit it.

Quick answerBrace the board, start the nail about an inch from the end, tilt it to about 45 to 60 degrees, and drive a matching nail from the opposite side.
Moderate15–30 min$0–10
Stud on a plate with two nails driven at 45 to 60 degrees from opposite sides, starting about an inch from the end, and a brace block
Toenailing: start about an inch from the end (1), angle the nail about 45 to 60 degrees, and nail from both sides (2), with a block bracing the board (3).

Why angled nails hold

Nails driven at an angle from opposite sides lock a joint together, a bit like two hands pinching. One angled nail on its own just pushes the board sideways, which is why toenails go in pairs, or threes on wider boards, from both sides.

Start the nail about 3/4 to 1 inch from the end of the board, roughly a third of the nail's length, angled at about 45 to 60 degrees, so it passes through the end and bites well into the other piece.

Why toenails slip

No brace

Each blow pushes the board off its mark.

Starting too close to the end

The wood splits and the nail loses its grip.

Too steep an angle

The nail runs out the side instead of into the other board.

Only one nail

A single angled nail can't lock the joint.

Getting it right
SettingAim forWhy
Where to startAbout 3/4–1 inch from the end (a third of the nail's length)Enough wood to hold without splitting.
AngleAbout 45–60°Carries the nail into the other board.
Number of nailsTwo or three, from opposite sidesLocks the joint.
Hardwood or close to the endPre-drillPrevents splits.
Protect your eyesWear safety glasses. Angled nails glance off more often than straight ones.

Let's fix it

0 of 5 done
  1. Mark and brace the boardMark where the board belongs. Clamp or temporarily screw a scrap block against it on the far side, or brace it with your foot, so it can't slide when you start nailing.
    Stud set on its pencil mark with a scrap block clamped behind it so it can't slide
  2. Start the nail straight inSet the point about 3/4 to 1 inch from the end of the board and give it a couple of light taps straight in, just enough for it to bite.
    Nail tapped straight into the side of the stud about an inch up from the bottom
  3. Tip it to the angleTilt the nail to about 45 to 60 degrees toward the other board and drive it with firm, controlled blows. Watch that the point heads into the other piece, not out the side.
    Nail tilted to about 45 to 60 degrees and driven down through the stud into the plate
  4. Nail from the other sideDrive a matching nail from the opposite face. It pushes the board back toward where the first nail moved it and locks it in place.
    Second nail driven at a matching angle from the opposite face of the stud
  5. Check it and finishCheck the board is still on your mark. Add a third nail on a wide board. On visible work, stop just short and finish with a nail set so the hammer doesn't dent the wood.
    Stud still on its mark with nail heads stopped flush

If the board keeps sliding

If the board keeps creeping, brace it tighter, or put the first nail in from the other side, then come back.

If the wood splits, pull the nail, drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the nail, and start a little farther from the end.

Pre-drill near the endNear the end of a board, or in hardwood, drill a pilot hole a little smaller than the nail first. It keeps the end from splitting.
Get a carpenter ifAnything load-bearing, like wall framing, deck posts or stairs. Nail size, count and pattern for those are set by code, and some joints call for metal connectors instead.

What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A carpenter typically charges $60–$120 an hour; small framing repairs often take a few hours.

Something else going on?

Toenailing questions

What's toenailing used for?

Joining boards where you can't nail straight through, like a stud to a plate, blocking between joists, or a post to a beam.

Is toenailing as strong as face nailing?

It's weaker than a nail straight through the full thickness, which is why toenails go in pairs from opposite sides, and why some structural joints use metal connectors instead.

What nails should I use?

It depends on the lumber and the job. Framing often uses 8d or 16d nails, but follow local code for anything structural.

Can I use screws instead?

Structural screws rated for the job work well, and some are made for angled use. Ordinary drywall screws aren't strong enough.

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