Recessed light turns off by itself
A recessed light that turns off by itself and comes back on a while later is usually overheating. Most can lights have a thermal protector that cuts the power when the housing gets too hot, then resets once it cools. A bulb that's too big or the wrong type, insulation packed around a housing not rated for it, or a trim that doesn't match the housing are the usual reasons. A loose bulb or a failing LED can cause similar flickering. A can light that turns itself off is protecting itself from heat. Give it a cooler bulb.
Why can lights shut themselves off
A recessed light, often called a can light, is a metal housing set into the ceiling with a socket inside and a trim that covers the opening. Most housings made for incandescent bulbs have a thermal protector, a small heat-sensitive switch that shuts the light off if the inside gets too hot. When the light cools, the switch closes again, so the light cycles off and on.
Some housings are rated for direct contact with insulation, marked IC, and others aren't. A non-IC housing needs space around it, commonly about 3 inches, so heat can escape. The label inside the housing lists the maximum bulb wattage, the bulb shapes allowed, and the trims that can be used. LED bulbs and retrofit kits run much cooler, which often ends the problem.
Common causes of a light cycling off
More heat than the housing allows.
Heat can't escape.
Traps heat inside the can.
Cuts out even when cool.
| You notice | Likely cause | Start at |
|---|---|---|
| Goes off after a while, comes back on | Overheating | Step 1 |
| Bulb wattage is over the label | Oversized bulb | Step 2 |
| Trim is a different brand | Unlisted trim | Step 3 |
| Insulation piled over the can | Non-IC housing buried | Step 4 |
| Old incandescent cans throughout | Good candidates for retrofit | Step 5 |
| Cuts out even with an LED | Wiring or housing | Step 6 |
Let's fix it
- Let it cool and check the bulbTurn the light off and let it cool for several minutes. Make sure the bulb is screwed in snugly. Look inside the housing for the label, and compare the bulb's wattage with the maximum listed. A 100-watt bulb in a housing rated for 65 watts will trip the thermal protector again and again.
- Use the right bulbReplace an oversized or wrong-shaped bulb with one the label allows, usually a reflector bulb such as a BR30 or PAR. An LED reflector bulb gives the same light with far less heat and is the easiest fix for a light that keeps cycling. If the light is on a dimmer, choose an LED marked dimmable.
- Check the trimThe trim must be one listed for that housing on its label. A trim from a different brand, or a decorative trim that closes up the opening, can trap heat. If the trim was replaced at some point, compare its model with the label, and swap it for a listed trim if it doesn't match.
- Check the insulation aboveIf you can reach the attic above the light, look at the housing. A label on it says whether it's IC rated. If it's non-IC and insulation is packed against it, pull the insulation back to leave the clearance the label calls for, commonly about 3 inches, or use a cover that's listed for use over non-IC fixtures. If the insulation is loose, gray-brown and pebbly, it may be vermiculite, which can contain asbestos; don't disturb it and call a pro. Step only on joists or boards in the attic. Never remove or bypass the thermal protector.
- Try an LED retrofitAn LED retrofit kit replaces the bulb and trim together and runs cool. Turn off the breaker and confirm the power is off with a voltage tester. Remove the old trim and bulb, screw the kit's adapter into the socket, plug it into the kit, and push the kit up into the housing so its springs or clips hold it. Check that it's listed for your housing size, and that it suits your dimmer.
- Know when it's wiring or the housingIf a light still cuts out with a cool LED, buzzes, or several lights on the same circuit act up, the problem is likely a loose connection or a failing housing. If you smell burning or see scorched trim or wires, turn off the breaker and leave it off. Both are jobs for an electrician.
Watch it done
- The light stays on for hours
- The bulb matches the label
- The trim is only warm, not too hot to touch
If it's a different lighting problem
If lights flicker throughout the house, check our guide for lights flickering.
If bulbs in one fixture keep burning out, there's a separate guide for light bulbs burning out quickly.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): An electrician typically charges $100–$200 for a service call, $150–$300 to replace a recessed light housing where the ceiling is accessible, and about $25–$60 per light to install LED retrofit kits when several are done together.
Find an electrician near youSomething else going on?
Recessed light questions
Why does my recessed light turn off by itself?
It's usually overheating. The thermal protector shuts it off and turns it back on after it cools.
What bulb should I use in a recessed light?
The type and wattage on the label inside the housing, usually a reflector bulb. An LED reflector runs much cooler.
Can insulation touch recessed lights?
Only if the housing is IC rated. Non-IC housings need clearance, commonly about 3 inches.
Will an LED bulb stop a can light from cycling off?
Often, yes, because LEDs make much less heat. If a cool LED still cuts out, have the wiring checked.