Light bulbs burning out quickly
Light bulbs burning out quickly in one fixture usually point to the bulb or the socket, not the wiring. The most common causes are a bulb that's wrong for the fixture, heat trapped in an enclosed globe, a loose bulb, or a socket tab that no longer makes firm contact. Vibration and dimmers that don't suit LEDs are next on the list. If bulbs are failing all over the house, or lights get brighter and dimmer on their own, that's a different problem and an electrician should check it soon. When one fixture eats bulbs, it's almost always the fixture or the bulb, not your wiring.
Why bulbs fail early
A bulb screws into a socket with two contacts: the threaded metal shell and a small brass tab at the bottom center. The tab is slightly springy so it presses against the bulb's base. If it flattens over time, the connection gets loose, which causes heat and tiny arcs that shorten the bulb's life and can scorch the socket.
Heat is the other big factor. Incandescent bulbs get hot, and LED bulbs have electronics in the base that fail early when they run hot. Enclosed fixtures like sealed globes and some recessed cans trap that heat, which is why many LED packages say whether the bulb is rated for enclosed fixtures. Vibration, frequent switching with older bulb types, and the wrong dimmer can also cut a bulb's life short.
Common causes of short bulb life
Too much wattage or a non-rated LED overheats in an enclosed fixture.
A poor connection makes heat and arcing.
Fans, garage openers and floors above shake filaments apart.
An old dimmer, a loose neutral or high voltage stresses bulbs.
| You notice | Likely cause | Start at |
|---|---|---|
| Bulbs in a glass globe keep dying | Heat in an enclosed fixture | Step 1 |
| Bulb flickers, then burns out | Loose bulb | Step 2 |
| Same socket eats bulbs | Flattened socket tab | Step 3 |
| Ceiling fan or garage opener bulbs fail | Vibration | Step 4 |
| LEDs on a dimmer buzz or die | Incompatible dimmer | Step 5 |
| Bulbs failing all over the house | Loose neutral or high voltage | Step 6 |
Let's fix it
- Check the fixture rating and bulb typeLook for a label inside the fixture or on the socket that lists the maximum wattage and bulb type. A bulb over that wattage runs too hot and fails early, and can damage the socket wiring. If the fixture is enclosed, like a sealed globe or a tight dome, use LED bulbs whose package says they're rated for enclosed fixtures. Swapping incandescent bulbs for LEDs of the right type also cuts heat a lot.
- Make sure the bulb is snugTurn off the switch and let the bulb cool for a few minutes. Turn the bulb clockwise until it's snug, but don't force it. A bulb that's slightly loose flickers, runs hot at the base, and burns out sooner, and it can loosen again on fixtures that get bumped or shake.
- Adjust the socket tabTurn off the circuit at the breaker, not just the switch, and confirm the power is off with a non-contact voltage tester. Remove the bulb and look at the brass tab at the bottom of the socket. If it's pressed flat, gently pry it up with a small flathead screwdriver, just enough to lift it about 1/8 inch, so it will press firmly against the bulb. If the tab is burned, brittle or the socket is scorched or cracked, don't reuse it; replace the socket or the fixture.
- Use sturdier bulbs where there's vibrationBulbs in ceiling fans, garage door openers and fixtures under a busy upstairs floor get shaken constantly, which breaks incandescent filaments. Use LED bulbs, which have no filament, or rough-service or appliance bulbs made for vibration. In a garage door opener, choose a bulb labeled for garage door openers, since some LEDs interfere with the remote's signal. If a ceiling fan wobbles, fixing that helps too; we have a guide for a wobbly ceiling fan.
- Match bulbs and dimmersAn older dimmer made for incandescent bulbs can make LEDs flicker, buzz and fail early. Check that the bulbs say dimmable and that the dimmer is rated for LED loads; replacing the dimmer with an LED-compatible model usually fixes it. Never put a non-dimmable LED on a dimmer circuit. Bulbs on motion sensors or timers that switch on and off often do best as LEDs, which aren't hurt by frequent switching.
- Watch for signs of a wiring problemIf bulbs are burning out in many fixtures around the house, some lights get brighter while others dim, especially when a large appliance starts, or you smell something hot near outlets or the panel, the cause may be a loose neutral connection or high voltage from the utility. That can damage electronics and is a fire risk. Call an electrician promptly, and if lights are surging badly, turn off sensitive electronics until it's checked.
Watch it done
- New bulbs last for months
- No flicker or buzz
- The bulb base isn't hot to touch
If bulbs keep failing
If bulbs last now but the light still flickers, see the guide for lights flickering.
If the socket is damaged or the fixture is old and worn, check our guide for replacing a light fixture.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): An electrician usually charges $100–$250 for a service call to diagnose bulb and socket problems, $150–$300 to replace a socket or install an LED-compatible dimmer, and $200–$500 or more to find and repair a loose neutral, depending on where it is.
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Bulb burnout questions
Why do my light bulbs keep burning out in one fixture?
Usually the bulb is wrong for the fixture, it's too hot inside an enclosed globe, or the socket tab is flattened and making poor contact.
Can a bad socket make bulbs burn out?
Yes. A loose or worn socket tab causes heat and arcing that shortens bulb life.
Why do LED bulbs burn out quickly?
Heat in enclosed fixtures and incompatible dimmers are the most common reasons.
When should I worry about bulbs burning out?
If bulbs fail all over the house or lights brighten and dim, call an electrician soon.
Why do my bulbs keep blowing?
Usually the bulb is wrong for the fixture, heat is trapped in an enclosed globe, the bulb is loose, or the socket tab isn't making firm contact.