Refrigerator not cooling
A fridge that's warm but still running is often a simple fix: the temperature got bumped, food is blocking the vents, the coils are clogged with dust, or the door isn't sealing. Check those first. Keep a thermometer handy, because how cold it actually is matters more than how it feels. A glass of water on a middle shelf is a good test. Leave a thermometer in it overnight for a reading that isn't thrown off by the door opening.
How a fridge stays cold
A refrigerator moves heat out of the box and releases it through the coils underneath or on the back. A fan blows cold air from the freezer into the fridge through vents.
When the fridge warms up but the freezer stays cold, the problem is usually airflow between them. When both warm up, look at the coils, the condenser fan, or the settings.
Why a fridge stops cooling
Easy to change by accident.
Food stops cold air reaching the fridge.
The fridge can't get rid of heat.
Warm air gets in.
| What you notice | Likely cause | Try |
|---|---|---|
| Fridge warm, freezer cold | Blocked vents or frost | Clear vents; call if frosted. |
| Both are warm | Dirty coils or a fan | Clean the coils; listen for fans. |
| Warm near the door | Leaky seal | Dollar bill test; clean the gasket. |
| Not running at all | Power or a failed part | Check the plug and breaker. |
Get it cold again
- Check the settingsMake sure the temperature control wasn't bumped and the fridge isn't in a demo or vacation mode. The FDA recommends keeping the fridge at 40°F or below and the freezer at 0°F.
- Clear the ventsLook for the air vents inside, usually at the back or top of the fridge compartment. Move food so nothing blocks them, and don't pack the fridge wall to wall.
- Clean the coilsUnplug the fridge, then vacuum or brush the dust off the condenser coils underneath or on the back. Dirty coils make the fridge work harder and cool less.
- Test the door sealsClose the door on a dollar bill. If it slides out easily, that part of the seal leaks. Clean the gasket with warm soapy water, and check that nothing keeps the door from closing.
- Listen for the fansPlug it back in. You should hear a fan running near the coils, and one inside the freezer when the door is closed. A silent fan, or a freezer wall covered in frost, points to a part that needs service.
- Check the temperature againPut a thermometer in a glass of water in the middle of the fridge and read it after about 24 hours. If it's still above 40°F, it's time to call for repair.
Watch it done
- A thermometer in water reads 40°F or below after 24 hours
- You hear the fans running near the coils and in the freezer
- A dollar bill closed in the door holds tight
If it's still warm
If the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm, frost may be blocking the air passage between them. Unplugging the fridge with the doors open for a day to defrost can help temporarily, but a failing defrost part usually needs a technician.
If the fridge is in a hot garage, it may not keep up in summer. Many fridges aren't built for very hot or very cold spaces; check the manual.
What a pro typically charges (a rough estimate; prices vary by area): A refrigerator repair call typically runs $150–$400. Replacing a fan motor or defrost part is often at the lower end.
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