Fix scratches in a laminate floor

Why laminate scratches can't be sanded

A laminate plank is a sandwich. The bottom is a dense fiberboard core. On top of that is a high-resolution photo of wood or stone printed on paper, and over the photo is a thin, very hard wear layer, usually clear melamine resin with aluminum oxide in it. That wear layer is what resists scuffs, and it's only a fraction of a millimeter thick. If you sand it, you sand right through the photo, so laminate can't be refinished the way solid hardwood can.

That changes the repair. A light scratch through the wear layer looks white or gray because it scatters light, and a repair marker or crayon fills the groove with color so it blends in. A deeper scratch or a chip goes through the photo into the brown core, and that has to be filled level with a hard wax or putty, then colored and grained by hand. Moisture is the other enemy: water that gets into a chip makes the core swell, and swollen laminate doesn't shrink back, so keep repairs dry. A quick way to tell what you're dealing with is to wipe the scratch with a damp cloth: if it nearly vanishes while wet, color alone will usually hide it.

What scratches laminate

Let's fix it

1. Clean the areaVacuum or sweep to remove grit, then wipe the spot with a cloth dampened with a laminate floor cleaner or a little water. Don't soak the floor or let water sit in the scratch. Dry it with a soft towel. Look again in good light: many light scuffs, especially from rubber soles or furniture, wipe off at this stage. If something is stuck on, a little rubbing alcohol on a cloth usually lifts it; try it on a hidden spot first. Let the area dry completely, usually about 15 minutes, before you add any color, since markers and wax won't stick to a damp surface.
   Done

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2. Check how deep it isRun a fingernail across the scratch. If your nail doesn't catch, it's a light scratch in the wear layer, and a marker should be enough. If your nail catches, or you can see the light brown core instead of the printed pattern, it's a deep scratch or chip that needs filling. Also press on the plank's edges: if they're raised, soft or swollen, water has gotten into the core, and filling won't hold well. Note the main color of the plank and the darker grain color. Most kits come with several colors you'll mix or layer.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • You can't tell the color Hold the kit's colors right next to the scratch in daylight, and pick the shade a little lighter than the plank's darkest grain. You can go darker later.

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3. Color a light scratch with a markerChoose a laminate or wood repair marker or a soft wax crayon close to the plank's main color. Draw along the scratch only, not across the plank, in short strokes that follow the grain. Wait about 30 seconds, then wipe across the scratch with a dry soft cloth to take color off the surface while leaving it in the groove. Step back and look from standing height. If it's still visible, add a second layer, or use a slightly darker marker to continue a grain line through the scratch. Test any marker on a hidden spot or a spare plank first.
   Done

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4. Fill a deep scratch or chipFor a scratch your nail catches in, or a small chip, use a laminate repair kit with hard wax sticks or a color-matched floor putty. With wax: melt a little of the closest color with the kit's melter and let it drip or press it into the scratch so it's slightly overfilled. With putty: press it in with the kit's plastic spatula. Let it firm up for a minute (wax) or as long as the label says (putty), then shave it flush with the plastic scraper held nearly flat, so you don't scratch the surface around it. Wipe away any residue with a soft cloth.
   Done

   Something went wrong?

   • The fill sank or cracked Add a second thin layer and level it again. Wax shrinks a little as it cools, so slightly overfilling helps.
   • The fill looks too light Darken it with a marker in Step 5 rather than digging it out.

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5. Blend the color and grainLook at the repair from standing height in normal light. If the fill reads as a flat patch, draw in a few thin grain lines with a darker marker or a fine artist's brush, continuing the lines that run through the plank on each side. Wipe lightly and let it dry. Some kits include a clear sealer or finish pen: apply a thin coat to match the floor's sheen, matte or satin, so the repair doesn't look shinier or duller than the rest. Don't put furniture polish or floor wax on laminate; most laminate makers say it leaves a slippery, cloudy film.
   Done

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6. Replace a plank that's too damagedA deep gouge longer than a few inches, a chipped plank edge, a crack or a swollen board won't look right with fillers, and swollen edges can keep chipping. Replacing one plank is a real option: if you have leftover planks from the install, use one. Planks near a wall can often be reached by taking off the baseboard or quarter round and unclicking the rows. In the middle of a room, the damaged plank is usually cut out and a new one glued in with its locking lip trimmed. The steps are close to replacing a damaged vinyl plank; follow your laminate maker's repair instructions.
   Done

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Watch it done

How To Fix Scratches In Laminate Wood Floors ( in less than 10 minutes) @MinwaxUSABy BStride DIY on YouTube. Their method may vary a little from ours.

Watch on YouTube

If it comes back

If repairs wear off where people walk most, that area may need a fresh coat of marker a couple of times a year, or a runner or rug. Repair wax holds up best in low-traffic spots.

If planks are separating or lifting instead of scratching, the floor is moving. See how to close gaps in a laminate floor or the guide for a buckling laminate floor.

If your floor is real hardwood or engineered wood rather than laminate, the fix is different and usually easier. See how to fix scratches in a hardwood floor.